Platt: The Taco Gets the Vongerichten Treatment at ABC Cocina
Unlike ABC Kitchen, ABC Cocina seems to have been designed more for grazing than for a sit-down dinner.
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Platt: Alder and Pearl & Ash Deliver More Than They Promise
Wylie Dufresne tries simplified cuisine, while Richard Kuo brings a "progressive wine bar" to the Bowery.
Platt: Lafayette Brings a Big Menu, Big Space, and Big Ideas to the Brasserie Craze
Andrew Carmellini’s latest venture is almost perfectly timed to catch the wave of French-food nostalgia that has been building, these last several months, all over city.
Platt: Fusion-Inspired Montmartre Redeems Itself After a Few Menu Tweaks
Gabriel Stulman has built an impressive dining empire in a short time by doing things the traditional way.
Platt: Herculean Portions and a Fervid Fan Base Define Carbone
“This place is like Il Mulino for hipsters.”
Adam Platt on the Reimagined Traditional Spanish Cuisine at Cata and Manzanilla
Larry Baldwin's tapas joint infuses classic recipes with a combination of old-fashioned elegance and modern heft, while a big-box brasserie seems depressingly familiar.
Platt: Harlow and Bill's Food and Drink Evoke a Bygone Era in Dining
Glitzy restaurants used to pop up all over town during the go-go years, but in this grimly post-crash era, they’ve been few and far between.
Platt: Graydon Carter Turns the Beatrice Inn Into His Latest Neo-Speakeasy
Over the years, he's had much better luck replicating this carefully calibrated formula than finding decent chefs.
The Underground Gourmet on Mama Joy's and Café à la Carte at Hotel Particulier
Mama Joy’s brings down-home cooking to industrial Bushwick, while Hotel Particulier makes you feel like you’re eating inside a gallery.
Platt: Two Stars Apiece for Hanjan and Maysville
At Hanjan, Hooni Kim updates the traditional Korean tavern (or joomak), while Maysville is another stealthily good restaurant built around the pleasures of a stiff drink.
Platt on the Return of Lobster Thermidor at Le Philosophe and the Tourondel Steakhouse at the Arlington Club
Le Philosophe, like several next-generation bistros in town, is reimagining French classics, while the former BLT restaurants chef is back in the big-money steakhouse racket.
Platt: At the Marrow, Harold Dieterle Mines His Two Ancestral Cuisines
This German-and-Italian fusion restaurant is slightly schizophrenic.
The Underground Gourmet: Salvation Taco Takes Delicious Liberties
April Bloomfield and Ken Friedman have gone out of their way to state that their humble efforts are no more Mexican than a Doritos Locos taco.
Platt: Aska Is a More Sophisticated, Worldly Operation Than It Seems
The cooks at this little Williamsburg restaurant do an admirable job with what they have of making you feel connected to the edifying culinary variety that’s available in the great outdoors.
Platt: The Celebrated Daniel Humm Reinvents Eleven Madison Park—Again
As you may have heard, Eleven Madison has recently ditched its à la carte concept altogether in favor of an elaborate prix fixe tasting extravaganza.
Platt: At Tribeca Canvas, the Once Over-the-Top Morimoto Scales Down
This is not the kind of restaurant we’re used to seeing from the glamorous Iron Chef and sushi master.
Platt: One Star for Sirio Ristorante and Strip House Midtown
The legendary Le Cirque restaurateur opens a Tuscan-minded hotel outlet, while the Euro-themed steakhouse's empire expands.
Platt: At L’Apicio, Small-Space Masters Gabe Thompson and Joe Campanale Go Big
By Thompson and Campanale’s tiny, Mini Cooper standards, L’Apicio is a huge Rolls-Royce of a place.
Platt: The Uptown Iteration of Il Mulino Pales Next to the West Village Original
Like lots of long-running productions, it's undermined, in the end, by its own formulaic success.
Platt: Gaonnuri Aims to Raise the Bar on Standard Koreatown Joints
With its gently thrumming disco soundtrack and panoramic skyscraper views, the modish dining room feels like something from the set of Lost in Translation.