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Gordon Ramsay’s Dark Side Revealed; Staten Island Pizza Conquers the World in Vegas

According to a revealing new profile by Heat author Bill Buford, Gordon Ramsay isn’t a bad guy, “but he does get angry, helplessly and uncontrollably angry — not an earthly anger but something darker — and has trouble knowing how to stop.” [NYer] State legislator proposes an A through F system of grading restaurant hygiene, but the Department of Health is against it. [amNY] A Staten Island pizzeria beats out a field of 65 from six countries to win the 23rd International Pizza Expo in Las Vegas. It’s Denino’s, right? Joe and Pat’s? No. It’s Goodfella’s Brick Oven Pizza. [NYDN]

We Try a $1,000 Pizza, Maintain That We Aren’t Publicity Tools

Given that we’ve already witnessed a $165 “Truffletini” (which we tasted) at Tini Ristorante, $120 hamburger at DB Bistro Moderne, $200 baked potato at the Four Seasons, and a $1,000 omelette at Norma’s, we weren’t surprised to hear about a $1,000 pizza. All it took was an upscale pizza joint — Nino’s Bellissima Pizza — six containers of caviar, a hardworking publicist, and lo, the four-figure, nine-inch pie was born. One has apparently already been sold, to celebrity ex-cop Bo Dietl. (We await the creation of a truffle doughnut explicitly for him.)

Restaurant Sues Critic and Wins; A Study of Pizza for Pesos

Good news for Jeffrey Chodorow: A restaurant owner in Ireland has successfully sued a critic's publication for giving him a bad review. [BBC] A Texas pizzeria riled anti-immigration types with a pesos-for-pizza stunt. This subsequent essay is part marketing communications, part sociology. [NYT] Fun interview with Drew Nieporent. Question: Is his favorite low-end restaurant really the random Benito’s II in Little Italy? [NYT]

Happy Valley Owners to Launch Pizza Empire

What are a couple of career nightlifers to do when the economic realities of the club business are giving them grief? Joe Vicari and Salvatore Imposimato, last seen running the late Happy Valley, have, for the moment, left models and bottles behind, but they haven’t strayed far: Last Friday they opened a pizza joint on Ludlow Street, the first of five they hope to introduce in the next year and a half. (Clearly, they mean to lure Rosario’s customers with this one.) Their formula is simple: thin-crust, gas-fired brick-oven pies like their aunts and uncles from Italy made (the Grandma is made with fresh cheese, garlic, olive oil, and cherry tomatoes from the San Rosano region). In addition to a margherita, a Sicilian, and a few other varieties, the joint stocks the usual assortment of calzones, zeppolis, and garlic knots — plus (as if the arcade across the street at Max Fish weren’t enough) a Street Fighter machine in the back. Those late-night revelers too smashed to wait for their slice to come out can buy bags of fresh dough for three bucks a pop. — Daniel Maurer Pizzeria De Santo, 173 Ludlow St., nr. Houston St.; 212-533-3337.