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Pizza

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Latest From a Great Greek Pizza Clan Debuts

New York has rarely seen a pizzeria that looks anything like Dean’s Pizza, which opened four weeks ago on the Upper West Side. Built into the refurbished grand ballroom of an old hotel, it has high ceilings and ornate moldings that elevate the act of ingesting cheese and sausage. But the pizza itself is no surprise: Co-owned by Mirene Angelis and Nick Tsoulos, the place is the latest effort from the city’s most productive pizza-making family, the extended Angelis-Tsoulos clan.

Boulud Settles Discrimination Suit; Ramsay Has His Day in Court

Daniel Boulud gives in and settles his discrimination suit, agreeing to pay off the plaintiffs, give his busboys and runners a raise, make his managers take sensitivity training, and set up standards and procedures for promotion. [NYT] Related: Daniel Under Attack! (Again) A court hearing later today will rule whether Gordon Ramsay faked scenes during his infamous “rescue” of Dillons restaurant. [Fox News] Blue Hill’s Dan Barber loves Lupa, Noodletown, and the “secret gem” greenmarket on West 97th Street. [Gothamist]

Merkat Busts Out Its Own Secret Room; Red Hook Vendors Safe Through Fall

Merkat has its own secret, PDT-style back room, Merkat Negre, with a chalkboard menu and a “young, pleasantly noisy crowd.” [Restaurant Girl] A typical weekend for a Red Hook soccer-fields vendor involves endless prep work, setting up by 7:30 a.m., cooking all day, and breaking the stand down at night … [NYT] But the vendors' rituals are safe until October 28, thanks to the intercession of Senator Chuck Schumer. [Serious Eats]

Senator Schumer Stands Up for the Red Hook Ball Fields; Di Fara Set to Reopen

Senator Chuck Schumer visits the Red Hook ball fields and stands up for the vendors in front of rolling cameras: “Removing this for something that might make a little more money for the City of New York makes no sense. We don't want McDonald’s here.” [NYDN] Earlier: Senator Schumer Springs to the Red Hook Ball-Fields’ Defense Di Fara will reopen by the end of the week. But it isn’t clear what owner Dom DeMarco will be doing to prevent another closure. [AMNY] FreshDirect has a rival in tiny, Long Island City–based Bread-n-Brie. Unlike FreshDirect, with its vast inventory, Bread-n-Brie goes to good markets and gets things for you upon request. [NYT]

Brooklyn Heights About to Get a Candlelit Pizzeria

Brooklyn Heights: Oven, an “all candlelit, 150-label-wine-list pizza joint,” will soon open. [Brooklyn Heights Blog] Flatiron: Hill Country barbecue does a preview, and Jason Perlow is there to document it in high-res detail. [Off the Broiler] Flushing: A Fan Ti is doing amazing things with lamb. [Gothamist] Long Island City: Water Taxi Beach to throw a “vegan extravaganza” on Saturday. [Joey in Astoria] Lower East Side: Herring season has arrived at Russ & Daughters. [VV] Park Slope: Rose Water chef Ethan Kostbar to leave in a few weeks. [NYT]

I Wonder If ‘New York Pizza’ Is a Total Joke

Dear Grub Street,
What’s the deal with Patsy’s and Grimaldi’s? The guy’s name was Patsy Grimaldi, right? Didn’t the place under the Brooklyn Bridge used to be called Patsy’s? I remember going there when I used to come out for AAU games. And where else would you recommend for true “New York–style” pizza? Or is that term a total joke?
DeWayne

Two Boots LES Almost Ready to Come Out of the Oven

We’ve received official word that the long-awaited Two Boots LES will open by Sunday, bringing with it five new strombolini, a manicotti entrée, and a slice, the Loisaida, which owner Phil Hartman promises will make “incendiary” use of “exotic peppers” from the nearby Pickle Guys. Hartman has been waiting for Con Ed to run the gas for a couple of weeks now, but he promises an opening party next week, with live jazz by Tonic refugees Paul Shapiro and Elliott Sharp. In the meantime, we can tell you to expect photos of locals and their tots and Mets memorabilia on the counter; eggplants, artichokes, and fish painted on wood by general manager Jose Arcila; and, for seating, a split between checkered tablecloths, bar stools, and outdoor tables. In short, an ideal place for LES stroller-pushers to put down the baby bottle and do their own tippling. —Alec Appelbaum Two Boots LES, 384 Grand St., nr. Norfolk St.; 212 228 8685. Delivery from Broadway to the East River and from Delancey Street to Wall Street.

Neroni Gives Lame Reason for Leaving Porchetta

Neroni’s reason for leaving Porchetta: They wanted to open for lunch and start serving sandwiches. And here we thought he was a prima donna. [Eat for Victory/VV] The Russian Tea Room, taking a page from straight-to-DVD movies, pulls misleading blurbs from bad reviews to try to get some desperately-needed positive press. [Page Six] Sullivan Street Bakery's Jim Lahey is said to be opening a pizzeria in Chelsea. [Food and Wine]

So Much for Eating Year-Round in Union Square

Clinton Hill: A brewery on Waverly Avenue hopes to start bottling Kelso beer. [Clinton Hill Blog] Coney Island: The Slice pizza club convenes on April 15 at Totonno’s. Catch: You have to ride the Cyclone before you chow. [Slice] Lower East Side: A sneak preview inspires Whole Foods envy: The new one on Houston puts the original Chelsea location in the shade. [Snack] Prospect Lefferts Gardens: The deli on Washington Avenue is getting renovated; neighbors hope that more than just sugar and water will be for sale. [across the park] Sheepshead Bay: Grillin’ by the Bay, the city’s only Kansas City Barbecue Society–sanctioned BBQ contest, to be held Saturday. And this year, you’ll actually be able to eat the stuff. [NYDN] Tribeca: Brunch plans rocked as the Department of Health shutters Kitchenette; also, Bubby’s on its way out. [Eater] Jacques Torres making dark-chocolate-covered peeps for those who didn’t already find them conducive to throwing up in church. [DailyCandy] Union Square: Parks Commissioner Adrian Benepe says there’s no chance of a year-round restaurant when the park’s north end gets overhauled. [Daily Intel] Upper West Side: Ollie’s Noodle Shop workers take their protest to the next level with a hot-shot lawyer. [Daily Intel] Williamsburg: A sign spotted earlier this week in the window of Brick Oven Gallery said they would reopen today after renovations — but a disconnected phone seems to tell a different story. [Grub Street]

Gordon Ramsay’s Dark Side Revealed; Staten Island Pizza Conquers the World in Vegas

According to a revealing new profile by Heat author Bill Buford, Gordon Ramsay isn’t a bad guy, “but he does get angry, helplessly and uncontrollably angry — not an earthly anger but something darker — and has trouble knowing how to stop.” [NYer] State legislator proposes an A through F system of grading restaurant hygiene, but the Department of Health is against it. [amNY] A Staten Island pizzeria beats out a field of 65 from six countries to win the 23rd International Pizza Expo in Las Vegas. It’s Denino’s, right? Joe and Pat’s? No. It’s Goodfella’s Brick Oven Pizza. [NYDN]

We Try a $1,000 Pizza, Maintain That We Aren’t Publicity Tools

Given that we’ve already witnessed a $165 “Truffletini” (which we tasted) at Tini Ristorante, $120 hamburger at DB Bistro Moderne, $200 baked potato at the Four Seasons, and a $1,000 omelette at Norma’s, we weren’t surprised to hear about a $1,000 pizza. All it took was an upscale pizza joint — Nino’s Bellissima Pizza — six containers of caviar, a hardworking publicist, and lo, the four-figure, nine-inch pie was born. One has apparently already been sold, to celebrity ex-cop Bo Dietl. (We await the creation of a truffle doughnut explicitly for him.)

Restaurant Sues Critic and Wins; A Study of Pizza for Pesos

Good news for Jeffrey Chodorow: A restaurant owner in Ireland has successfully sued a critic's publication for giving him a bad review. [BBC] A Texas pizzeria riled anti-immigration types with a pesos-for-pizza stunt. This subsequent essay is part marketing communications, part sociology. [NYT] Fun interview with Drew Nieporent. Question: Is his favorite low-end restaurant really the random Benito’s II in Little Italy? [NYT]

Happy Valley Owners to Launch Pizza Empire

What are a couple of career nightlifers to do when the economic realities of the club business are giving them grief? Joe Vicari and Salvatore Imposimato, last seen running the late Happy Valley, have, for the moment, left models and bottles behind, but they haven’t strayed far: Last Friday they opened a pizza joint on Ludlow Street, the first of five they hope to introduce in the next year and a half. (Clearly, they mean to lure Rosario’s customers with this one.) Their formula is simple: thin-crust, gas-fired brick-oven pies like their aunts and uncles from Italy made (the Grandma is made with fresh cheese, garlic, olive oil, and cherry tomatoes from the San Rosano region). In addition to a margherita, a Sicilian, and a few other varieties, the joint stocks the usual assortment of calzones, zeppolis, and garlic knots — plus (as if the arcade across the street at Max Fish weren’t enough) a Street Fighter machine in the back. Those late-night revelers too smashed to wait for their slice to come out can buy bags of fresh dough for three bucks a pop. — Daniel Maurer Pizzeria De Santo, 173 Ludlow St., nr. Houston St.; 212-533-3337.