Gordo Envisions Demise of Bruni; David Burke Scores Cabaret LicenseGordo scoffs at Frank Bruni for panning his restaurant after the Times critic called to “schmarm” him and ask about a dish since “if you don’t know what you’re criticising, then don’t write about it.” But the snappy chef still feels generous toward food critics: He’ll “do all the canapés at their funerals free of charge.” [Daily Star]
David Burke just acquired a cabaret license for Hawaiian Tropic Zone, though thankfully it won’t be Burke himself doing the dancing but rather professionals copying the Pussycat Dolls. [NYP]
Smart small businesses like Little Cupcake Bake Shop in Bay Ridge are leading the green front because they can “benefit from conservation efforts in two ways — by saving money on their monthly utility bills and by raising their profile in the community for much less money than they might spend on local advertising.” [NYT]
The Other Critics
Meehan Rising Up Against Oppressors at ‘Times,’ Covering Ultracheap
Peter Meehan, the Times’ “$25 and Under” critic, lately sounds more like the $7 and under critic. In the past three columns, he’s reviewed a Korean fried chicken and beer joint and most recently, a taco stand inside a garage in Bushwick. What Meehan is doing is actually far more radical than most readers realize. Twenty-five and under was conceived as a sop to the masses, a side order to the real review’s main course. And a lot of people, including new dining-section editor Pete Wells, have complained that $25 is an unrealistically low figure in this day and age. Covering ultra-ultra-cheap eats, meanwhile, seems to be Meehan’s idea of progress. Here’s hoping his next piece continues the trend.
How do we know Pete Wells thinks $25 is too cheap? He told us so.