The critic calls the place, "crafty, folky, a bit clumsy and subtly manipulative."
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Lazy Ox's Kevin Lee is endowing the restaurant with some new small plates.
The restaurant made it only six months before staff decided to concentrate on Jason Michaud's Red Hill.
The winner of America's Next Great Restaurant sets up shop in the famous tourist district.
The restaurant will focus on the varied cultures of the city, but bucks the fusion label.