"For lunch, I contemplated the epic chakchouka..."
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Somehow the communal drink was not as popular as the chef's croquetas served in a running shoe.
Elsewhere, Jonathan Gold targets Bryant Ng's Spice Table as the bulls-eye of L.A.'s coherent new dining scene.
The only certainty is that L.A. soon won't be the only one.
Jose Andres made decadent tacos, Spago roasted an entire goat, and Nancy Silverton wore a funny inflatable hat.
It's not the gig at Harvard or fancy food that impress us as much as Andres' dedication to the American diet.
A Spanish master chef gets another "Best of 2009" nod.