Some people look at noodle kugel and see an Ashkenazi-Jewish artifact, derived from the round dumpling historically steamed inside the Sabbath stew cholent, that evolved over time and migration into the egg-and-dairy-enriched pudding we know today. But Celestine chef Garett McMahan sees a pasta-course vehicle for some of his favorite ingredients, like rabbit, prunes, and the Yemeni spice mix hawaij. Elegant as his rendition may be, it’s no lightweight. “At the end of the day, it’s a pasta casserole,” he says. “It’s going to be heavy.”
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On the menu at Celestine; $18; 1 John St., nr. Adams St., Dumbo; 718-522-5356
*This article appears in the December 25, 2017, issue of New York Magazine.