Grub Street New York

Washington Post Critic Takes Down Euro Import La Tagliatella in Brutal Review

Hugh Merwin — Wed, 19 Jun 2013 17:55:00 GMT

Unlimited soup, salad, and confusion.]]> Tom Sietsema writes in the Washington Post that his local Arlington location of expansion-happy Euro-chain La Tagliatella makes him wish there were such a thing as "hazard pay for restaurant critics." The Poland-based restaurant specializes in "strangely ham-heavy" Neapolitan pizzas, behemoth plates of pasta, and salads like the house Caesar, which seems to be made with exactly zero of the classic ingredients and comes with a "choice of six dressings, including a honey and pistachio vinaigrette that goes down like melted baklava and tastes even more out of place when Dean Martin is belting out 'Volare' in the background." Verdict? "Someone needs to put a stop to this threat to our nation." The funniest restaurant review you'll read all day is here. [WP]

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Filed Under: the other critics, la tagliatella, washington, washington dc restaurants

Cobble Hill Grocery Store Pits Celery Stalks Against Incoming J.Crew

Hugh Merwin — Wed, 19 Jun 2013 17:05:00 GMT

Chinos or cucumbers?]]> After twelve years in business, Pacific Green has been told to pack up its awnings and vacate its retail space at the corner of Court Street and Pacific in Cobble Hill to make room for a swanky, new two-level J.Crew shop. The greengrocer and corner store's owners have approached its landlord with an offer to pay a higher rent in exchange for an extended lease, but the landlord has so far refused, which is why local resident Carl Foner has started an online petition beseeching the clothing retailer to drop its Court Street plans. The bid to save Pacific Green has almost reached its goal of 1,000 signatures. [Change.org]

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Filed Under: paper or plastic, brooklyn, cobble hill, grocery stores, j. crew, new york, pacific green

6 Things to Know About the World Food Prize’s Politics

Sierra Tishgart — Wed, 19 Jun 2013 16:10:00 GMT

In bed together.]]> Each year, the World Food Prize Foundation awards a quarter-million dollars to someone who's improved the quality, quantity, or availability of food. It sounds like a nice, fair idea, but Mother Jones reports that the prize's "recipients have been champions of exactly the kind of industrial-scale agriculture that is the livelihood of the award's corporate backers." The U.S. government supports this not-so-democratic selection process: The State Department hosts the announcement ceremony, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture and the World Prize Foundation "consult regularly together." Here are some things to keep in mind before the recipient is announced this afternoon.

]]> 1. Like the James Beard Awards are called the "Oscars of the food world," the World Food Prize is often referred to as the "Nobel Prize of food." But the World Food Prize was actually founded by Nobel Peace Prize winner Norman Borlaug in the eighties.

2. Since the ceremony is hosted by the State Department, John Kerry will announce the winner today! But that doesn't mean it's a fair playing field: "Funders of the foundation which backs it have a vested interest in promoting industrialized farming around the world."

3. Between 2009 to 20111, combined donations to the World Prize from ADM, Cargill, Monsanto, and General Mills totaled over half a million dollars.

4. The Gates Foundation and the Rockefeller Foundation made combined donations of $1.93 million during that time, too. These big charities have their own agendas.

5. Prior winners have gone on to "blast critics of industrial agriculture" and serve on the advisory committee for DuPont, a global research- and technology-based science company.

6. It makes sense that the U.S. government supports this prize: "The Obama administration has been ramping up agricultural development as both a means of third-world poverty alleviation and a business opportunity for Americans." In other words, the government is invested in foreign agribusiness — and, thus, this award.

The World Food Prize, Brought to You By Monsanto [Mother Jones]

]]> Read more posts by Sierra Tishgart

Filed Under: food politics, agriculture, farming, general mills, genetically modified foods, gmo, gmo crops, gmo seeds, government, monsanto, world food prize

Paula Deen Reportedly Planned a Wedding With Waiters Who Looked Like ‘Slaves’

Hugh Merwin — Wed, 19 Jun 2013 15:35:00 GMT

]]> The flamboyant television food personality and enthusiastic pusher of an inane new line of pointless butter spreads allegedly admitted to telling racist jokes, using the N-word regularly, and — wait for it — enlisting "black men to play the role of slaves at a wedding" she was planning. All of these awful new Paula Deen factoids and more are courtesy of Radar, which reportedly had access to a deposition that was videotaped last month in conjunction with the sexual harassment charges levied against Deen's brother Bubba by former Uncle Bubba's Seafood and Oyster House general manager Lisa Jackson last year.

]]> Details, some of which have been posted in advance of what's being touted as a "bombshell report" that publishes tomorrow in the National Enquirer, states that the celebrity chef tells jokes "about Jewish people, rednecks, black folks" and says, "I can’t determine what offends another person." When asked if she uses the N-word, Deen allegedly responds, "Yes, of course."

Another line of questioning allegedly pertained to a wedding planned by Deen in which she had the idea to have a team of "middle-aged black men" wearing "beautiful white jackets with a black bow tie" serve guests. Here's Deen's (perhaps tellingly) ellipsis-heavy comment:

“I mean, it was really impressive. That restaurant represented a certain era in America … after the Civil War, during the Civil War, before the Civil War … It was not only black men, it was black women … I would say they were slaves.”

If this is any indication of what's going to be in the museum, we're just going to stay on the tour bus, thanks.

Paula Deen Admits Using The N-Word & Making Racial Jokes In Explosive Deposition [Radar via Jezebel]
Earlier: Paula Deen-Branded Butter Sounds Absolutely Delicious
Earlier: Paula Deen and Brother, Bubba Hiers, Accused of Sexual Harassment
Related: 10 Things That Need to Go Inside the Paula Deen Museum

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Filed Under: lawsuits, bigots, paula deen, racism, savannah, savannah restaurants

Proposals Sought for New Restaurant Coming to Pier 26 on the Hudson

Hugh Merwin — Wed, 19 Jun 2013 14:25:00 GMT

It will look something like this.]]> A large new restaurant with killer views of Hudson River Park and the choppy gray-green river itself is coming to Tribeca, it turns out. Hudson River Park Trust has issued an RFP for the under-construction building at Pier 26, which is being used these days for the most part to host special events but is the future home of an elegant pavilion building next to the boathouse. Once completed, it'll boast tall windows on three sides, large sliding glass doors that open on to the river, and multiple outdoor seating areas for al fresco dining.

]]> "It's an empty slate right now," Hudson River Park CEO Madelyn Wils tells Grub Street. It's expected that the incoming operator will put locally produced food to good use at the venue, she says, but the trust is looking for a broad cross section of fresh ideas. A large seafood house might be a natural fit for the pier, but the site could also become a beer garden focusing on regional microbrews, or even a family-oriented bistro. "I'd like there to be something for everyone," Wils says.

Some details: The dining room is 1,678 square feet and will have room for 114 people. Outdoor terraces at pier level will seat up to 150 more, and a showstopping, 4,458-square-foot roof terrace will accommodate up to 300 guests. The windows that wrap around three sides of the building are practically ten feet tall. (And yes, the restaurant will be built with a floodwall to help mitigate any future storm surges.)

Restaurant consultant Steven Kamali is acting as a pro bono food and beverage adviser to the HRPT and will help field the proposals of potential operators later this summer. He considers the Pier 26 project an opportunity to create a future landmark.

"There are plenty of spots along the park that provide amenities," he says. "But the way we're thinking about this is for the restaurateur to come in and open something that becomes a true dining destination, a place to get a great piece of chicken or some great sushi. The idea is to open a place that diners will actively seek out. That's why we're looking for phenomenal operators."

The trust is accepting proposals until August 23 and plans to select an operator by the end of September. More information can be found here.

Bids & Business Opportunities [Hudson River Park]

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Filed Under: coming soon, hudson river park, madelyn wils, new york, new york restaurants, pier 26, steven kamali

The Other Critics: Wells Reviews Kajitsu; Almost Everyone Else Files on Lafayette

Samuel Sontag — Wed, 19 Jun 2013 13:20:00 GMT

Two stars for Kajitsu.]]> This week, Adam Platt visited ABC Cocina, awarding it two stars. "This new Jean-Georges-Kluger ABC outlet is not quite as tight and focused as their original collaboration," Platt says, "but when you factor in the range of the food and the myriad boozing opportunities, you could argue that it's a good deal more fun." Where did the other critics dine this week? Three (three!) reviewed Lafayette. Read on for their reactions, straight ahead.

]]> Pete Wells dined at Kajitsu, which moved from the East Village to Murray Hill. The new dining room "shimmers, although it has not quite gone Vegas," and it has less of a "monastic aesthetic" than the original location. Chef Ryota Ueshima's vegan dishes "have unexpected depth." A fried lotus-root-and-tofu sandwich has "something like the pungent, funky, very deep and long-lasting flavor of blue cheese, with a smoothness all its own." Chilled pea soup is simply and slightly sweet, but Western vegetables like grape tomatoes and corn have "not come into their own yet." Kajitsu's always-changing dishes are "drawn from the season, but they are also drawings of the season." Two stars.

Steve Cuozzo reviewed Andrew Carmellini's Lafayette, and liked it more each time he visited. "The first month it wobbled like the sidewalk boozers," but "things have matured since then." Though the pastas "seem fussy," and the chicken, charcuterie, and pate maison are "available at 100 'Le's' and 'La's' around town," the "gigantic soft-shell crab, as sweet as the batter was crackling, drew uninhibited moans of bliss." He also enjoyed the fleur de soleil pasta — a favorite of other critics. Three stars.

Ryan Sutton also reviewed Lafayette, and he declared it "another winner." He and Cuozzo are in agreement on the duck au poivre, which Sutton describes as "epic, packing the tenderness of filet mignon, the punch of game and the mouth-filling heat of pepper." But whereas Cuozzo finds the chicken skippable, Sutton sees it as "the main event." Two misses are the beef tartare, "an $18 fail," and the steak-frites, "with a one note-beefiness that's drowned by herb butter." Two and a half stars.

The New Yorker's Amelia Lester visited Lafayette, too, calling it "the grandest and most convincing" of the slew of new, trendy French restaurants downtown. She finds the portions to be generous and that almost all of the dishes reach "heights of casual perfection." This includes the "superlative" bread, "velvety" baby scallops, and a beef tartare that's "chunky, not chewy." And "to be in the light-filled dining room on a balmy summer's evening is an exercise in pure pleasure."

And finally! A review that's not Lafayette: Stan Sagner ate at the Greenwich Project., the high-concept bar with ambitious food. He suggests dining downstairs, as upstairs "promising dishes get derailed." Cavatelli and roasted Amish chicken are ruined by salt, and a potato-topped soft-shell crab dish is "culinary overkill, Mafia-style." Stay downstairs and sample small plates like "addictive" crispy artichoke hearts and a breaded poached egg with caramelized, truffle onion. Two stars.

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Filed Under: the other critics, kajitsu, lafayette, the greenwich project

Wolfgang Puck Trains Jon Favreau on the Sauté Station

Hugh Merwin — Wed, 19 Jun 2013 13:00:00 GMT

]]> The summer of Jon Favreau infiltrating professional restaurant kitchens to learn how to cook fancy food continues. Last night, The Hollywood Reporter notes, the actor and director got some pan-seared salmon lessons from Wolfgang Puck at the Hotel Bel-Air during a $190 per person, seven-course tasting menu dinner. (Roy Choi and David Chang also contributed courses.) Favreau has also been gleaning skills from the Kogi chef-owner in preparation for his role in the upcoming Chef, which will also star Robert Downey Jr., Sofia Vergara, and Scarlett Johansson. From the sound of it, the actor's time on the line is paying off, and apparently his spot prawns are pretty spot-on.

]]>

Look who's in the kitchen tonight, cooking and doing research! #wpic pic.twitter.com/WinqnDJXIc

— Wolfgang Puck (@WolfgangBuzz) June 19, 2013 Jon Favreau Cooks Undercover at the Hotel Bel-Air [THR]

Earlier: David Chang And Roy Choi Cooking at Wolfgang Puck at Bel-Air!!

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Filed Under: trail, chef, chef movie, david chang, jon favreau, los angeles, movies, roy choi, wolfgang puck

Jason Dady at City Grit; Gotham’s Vegetarian Lunch

Tue, 18 Jun 2013 21:55:00 GMT

• Black Tree on the LES is launching a summer "Slip and Slide-r" happy hour from 4 to 8 p.m. A slider-size sandwich board ($9) offers three sandwiches with daily changing fillings like ale-braised short rib. Chase your sliders with local craft beers on tap ($4) or a glass of wine. [Grub Street]

• Momofuku restaurateur David Chang, Andy Ricker of Pok Pok, Carlo Mirachi of Roberta's and Blanca and the Del Posto crew are among the all-star lineup of chefs who'll join Christopher Kostow's Twelve Days of Christmas dining series in December at Restaurant at Meadowood. Tickets range between $395 and $750, and the restaurant donates a significant portion of all sales to nonprofit organizations. Email reservations@therestaurantatmeadowood.com for more information or to secure your spot.

• To celebrate its new cookbook, Greenmarket to Gotham, the venerable Gotham Bar and Grill is offering a special vegetarian lunch this Saturday. A $75 ticket includes a three-course meal featuring recipes from the book, wine pairings from New Zealand Fine Wines, and a copy signed by chef Alfred Portale. Tickets can be acquired online or by phone. Seatings will be from noon till 2 p.m. [Grub Street]

• Jason Dady, the up-and-coming San Antonio chef, will cook a City Grit dinner this Friday. Expect dishes like blue-crab bahn mi and roasted papusa with duck carnitas. Tickets are $75. [Grub Street]

• The Center is kicking off Pride Week this Monday on Hudson River Park's Pier 84 with food from Acme and the Standard Grill, along with many others. [Grub Street]

]]> • Ditch Plains is offering a $40 crab boil this Thursday, June 20, at the UWS location. Don't worry if you miss it: Subsequent shellfish bonanzas are scheduled for July 18 and August 15. [Grub Street]

• This Saturday, Brushstroke is having a "Summer Kaiseki & Cocktails" dinner. Only eight seats are available, but chef Yamada is planning on making this a monthly event at the restaurant. [Grub Street]

• Tocqueville's new Greenmarket menu will be available for the rest of the summer season, featuring an array of local fruit and produce. It's $39 for lunch, $55 for dinner. [Grub Street]

]]> Filed Under: leftovers, black tree, brushstroke, crit grit, ditch plains, gay pride, gotham bar and grill, jason dady, tocqueville

Dunkin’ Donuts Will Never Say It’s ‘Time to Make the Doughnuts’ Again

Hugh Merwin — Tue, 18 Jun 2013 21:35:00 GMT

Fred rules.]]> "He's not coming back." —Dunkin' Brands Group CFO Paul Carbone doesn't want to talk about Fred the Baker anymore. [AP]

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Filed Under: quote of the day, dunkin donuts, fast food restaurants, fred the baker, the chain gang

Simon Oren’s Chef Driven Market Will Open in Union Square, After All

Hugh Merwin — Tue, 18 Jun 2013 21:15:00 GMT

It's on again.]]> The restaurateur behind the 5 Napkin Burger chain and many other French-Mediterranean spots has been given the green light to open his planned 200-seat, full-service restaurant called Chef Driven Market on the north side of Union Square, the Post reports. Earlier, a nonprofit called NYC Park Advocates had been successful in its bid to stop the restaurant from opening, along with its "eye-popping brunch prices of up to $19.95 a plate." In January, a judge denounced the Bloomberg-backed plan, along with a Union Square-set holiday market, but today the five-judge Appellate Division reversed the ruling. The advocacy group may still appeal the decision. [NYP, Earlier, Earlier]

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Filed Under: lawsuits, chef driven market, new york, new york restaurants, simon oren, union square

Pizza Drones and Hands-Free Whopper Holders: How Fast-Food Giants Make Big Money by Selling Fake Products

Hugh Merwin — Tue, 18 Jun 2013 20:05:00 GMT

The hands-free Whopper holder is real, sorta.]]> Chances are good that in the last couple of years, you've helped a junk-food maker or fast-food company advertise itself. That's because big food corporations are figuring out that they can maximize their social-media footprint if they stop marketing their actual products and instead roll out fake, attention-grabbing creations they have no intention of ever making. It's not at all surprising that companies are trying to use viral content to market their products — but it is a little bit shocking how readily consumers go for the bait.

]]> The trend dates back at least to 2008, when early adopter Burger King announced the launch of a Whopper-scented cologne — news that quickly spread to every corner of the Internet. The cologne was real (if limited in quantity), but the launch was just a stunt. Not that that stopped it from being an enormous viral hit on social media.

In the five years since, the strategy has steadily gained momentum — particularly in the past year. Last week, conveyor-belt sushi chain Yo! Sushi unveiled its latest innovation, a remote-controlled drone quadcopter that may or may not eventually be used to levitate rice burgers to seated customers. And that wasn't even the first delivery-drone announcement this month: Two weeks earlier, Domino's unleashed a promo video for its Blackwater-themed "DomiCopter," a new, yes, delivery drone, which — were it real — would whisk hot pies through the sky right to your front door. Meanwhile, Burger King was back to its old tricks with the announcement of an inventive, hands-free Whopper holder in honor of a franchise anniversary in Puerto Rico. It was only after the Internet's arteries began clogging with legions of blog posts about the mod-looking feeding trough (the accompanying video got a half-million views on YouTube) did the chain announce there was no such thing as a hands-free Whopper holder.

The "Domicopter."Photo: YouTube

Rainbow Oreos, which appeared online last summer as a tribute to marriage equality, followed the same basic trajectory: The product went viral at lightning speed, and then Nabisco revealed they had no intentions of actually making the colorful cookie.

In each case, these attention-grabbing stunts prompted the kind of OMG, have you seen this? reaction that seems to compel people to share links online. The appeal is hardly lost on reporters and editors (the staff of Grub Street included), who — smelling a potential hit — tend to cover the news announcement. Those stories then get passed around on social media, and the brand name is splashed all over Twitter feeds and Facebook walls around the world. From a marketer's perspective, it's mission accomplished.

Beyond that, fake stuff is just easier. The company gets the PR boost without ever facing the usual array of headaches that accompany the roll-out of real-life products. It's difficult to enforce false-advertising regulation against something that doesn't exist. But in the real world, Kellogg's can be sued for claiming Cocoa Krispies strengthen the immune system or saying that Frosted Mini-Wheats make kids smarter.

As the art of the fake-product launch has matured, some companies have found that the viral benefits are just as great when the creative genius who makes up the product is just some random person on the Internet. Anyone with rudimentary Photoshop skills can put together a somewhat believable depiction of Han Solo Pop-Tarts. If an unofficial product doesn't gel with the brand image, the company can issue a cease-and-desist under the guise of protecting their trademark. If it does, they issue a statement that says they had nothing to do with it and watch as people continue to share the faux product while wishing it existed — or, in the case of a Pop-Tart-flavored vodka, actually believing it did.

Even a stalwart consumer-goods company like Procter & Gamble will play ball. P&G must have been unsettled a few years ago when it learned that some digital smart aleck had mocked up a fake Doritos-flavored edition of Scope mouthwash. But by 2013, the company was ripping off the concept, announcing the "launch" of a bacon-flavored version of the mouthwash. The product had a YouTube ad, a slogan ("For breath that sizzles"), and got ink from national food outlets like Bon Appétit. When everyone found out it was fake, that just created an additional round of buzz.

It's hard to believe these aren't real.Photo: IGN

This is marketing as performance art, and it's working.

Gawker recently pointed out that marketers are constantly looking for "the ad that doesn't feel like an ad." Here we have it. People who might otherwise ignore traditional advertising see these products and like sharing the news. Among all the talk of sponsored content appearing in traditional media outlets, this is advertising that is actual, non-sponsored content. A company just puts it out there, and consumers do all the heavy lifting: "You have to entrust 23-year-olds to protect or amplify the brand without the classic structure that organizations use to make decisions,” Taco Bell chief executive Greg Creed said a few weeks ago, which is a message more ominous than it seems. “That’s why understanding the brand essence is so important, because they can respond in the voice of the brand.”

Fake or not, eau de pepperoni, hamburger contraptions, and the intangible prospect of drone deliveries present a way for consumers to talk about a brand or fast-food chain without talking about fat and salt content and high-fructose corn syrup — at least for a few days.

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Filed Under: the fakeness, burger king, coca-cola, doritos, kellogg's, mcdonald's, pepsi, pizza hut, pizza hut perfume, whopper cologne, whopper holder

Lady Gaga’s Dad Unleashes Twitter Fury on Health Department

Hugh Merwin — Tue, 18 Jun 2013 19:55:00 GMT

One bad potato spoils the whole bin.]]> He previously went to the press when he had issues with the Health Department, but Joe Germanotta was apparently so angered after Joanne Trattoria on the Upper West Side was inspected last week that he decided to vent and offer his side of the story on Twitter. In some nineteen-odd tweets spanning everything from rotten potatoes to ice scoops, the restaurateur singles out "corrupt" officials by name and badge number, and even implores Bloomberg to give him a call so they can advance the cause of food safety together, or something like that. [Daily Mail via Eater NY, Earlier, Related]

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Filed Under: one bad potato, critical violations, health department, joanne, joe germanotta, lady gaga

Food Companies Tricking Customers by Making Processed Products Look More Natural and Wholesome

Sierra Tishgart — Tue, 18 Jun 2013 19:10:00 GMT

Be afraid.]]> Most people know that a McMuffin's perfectly rounded egg has little relation to anything found in nature. Same goes for Kraft's identically shaped oval turkey slices — and the square burger patties at Wendy's. This is why companies are now intentionally making their products look less perfect and more rustic and wholesome: Kraft hired researchers to study the way people cut their meat so that its products appear "home-cooked," and Domino's workers received instruction to make pies look a bit sloppy. Customers are smart enough to know that processed food is bad for them, but companies hope that a "natural" appearance will trick them into thinking something's actually healthy. But, if anything, now the food's ugly on both the inside and the outside. [AP]

]]> Read more posts by Sierra Tishgart

Filed Under: rude, fast food, food news, health, kraft, mcdonald's, nutrition, obesity, wendy's

Rachel Maddow Improved the Piña Colada

Hugh Merwin — Tue, 18 Jun 2013 18:35:00 GMT

Where's the rum?]]> Over the weekend, Dan Pashman of the Sporkful took to the airwaves and discussed the sorry state of the late modern piña colada with "Weekend Edition" host Rachel Martin on NPR. The gist of it is that the rum cocktail is traditionally based on Coco López, a stabilized and emulsified product that apparently scares some people off, and that it's never been improved. Until recently: The MSNBC host apparently developed a hack a while back that replaces the cream of coconut with orgeat, and the result is a less sickly sweet drink. The Maddow Colada recipe — which may or may not be crucial to a more bearable summer — is straight ahead.

]]> The Maddow Colada
1.5 oz light rum
1 oz 8 year old Bacardi or other nice medium-bodied amber rum
1.5 oz unsweetened coconut milk
1.5 oz orgeat (almond syrup — Maddow recommends Teisseire. Torani is most common.)
4 oz pineapple juice
Blend with ice.
Don't strain, serve in a short glass, garnish with pineapple wedge, tiny umbrella
serve with short, stubby (fat) straws.

Cocktail Moment by proxy: The Maddow Colada [Maddow Blog/MSNBC]

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Filed Under: getting caught in the rain, cocktails, pina colada, rachel maddow, the sporkful

McDonald’s Worker Sues After Receiving Ridiculous Debit Card Instead of Real Paycheck

Hugh Merwin — Tue, 18 Jun 2013 17:55:00 GMT

Why is this man running away?]]> Last month, Dallas, Pennsylvania, resident Natalie Gunshannon stopped working at her local McDonald's after three weeks on the job, not necessarily because the pay was bad (at $7.44 an hour, though, it was), but because the local franchise holder repeatedly told the 27-year-old that the only way she could be paid was in the form of a prepaid Chase Bank debit card that basically made the single mother pay extra any time she wanted access to her earnings.

]]> The Times-Leader reports that after taking into account the multitude of charges and assorted service fees, including a "$1.50 charge for ATM withdrawals, $5 for over-the-counter cash withdrawals, $1 per balance inquiry, 75 cents per online bill payment and $15 for lost/stolen card," Gunshannon was left with the funny feeling she was earning far less than the $7.25 minimum wage.

So she never signed the card, and now the former McDonald's employee is suing the franchise holder for unspecified damages. Though Gunshannon is apparently not part of a larger movement, activists argue that cases like hers are typical of the spectrum of unfair working conditions throughout the fast-food industry. For almost a year, organizers have led a series of strikes across the country to give workers a platform to demand better pay across the board.

McD's Worker Sues: Don't Pay By Credit Card [Times-Leader]
Earlier: New York's Fast Food Workers Resume Citywide Strikes

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Filed Under: lawsuits, fast food, mcdonald's, pennsylvania, the chain gang