At the original Manhattan Una Pizza Napoletana on East 12th Street, Anthony Mangieri famously offered his guests nothing but pizza, and only until the dough ran out. That and a small, complimentary chunk of chocolate chiseled off a bar for dessert. Times have changed. At the UPN reboot on the Lower East Side, there are small plates, and, as of press time, three full-fledged desserts, including this cleverly tweaked tiramisu made by UPN partner Fabián von Hauske Valtierra, who swaps out the usual ladyfingers for lemon sponge cake soaked in espresso, aged rum, and Cynar. How does it taste? Rich and creamy, sweet and bitter, and so oddly delicious the kitchen runs out of tiramisu these days about as frequently as it runs out of dough.
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On the menu at Una Pizza Napoletana; $9. 175 Orchard St., nr. Stanton St.; 646-692-3475.
*This article appears in the May 28, 2018, issue of New York Magazine. Subscribe Now!