You wouldn’t want to arm-wrestle the cook on the scrambled-egg station at Frenchette, Riad Nasr and Lee Hanson’s new Tribeca bistro. Each order requires nearly 15 minutes of vigorous, nonstop stirring, plus the intuitive vigilance to move the pan around the French ring flattop as if it were a Ouija board, from hot to warm to cool spots, all to prevent the emulsion of egg, butter, and cream from breaking. The goal is a curd so soft and silky it resembles polenta as it pours from the pan. The garnish of snails in garlic butter isn’t traditional, but the happy accident of a pre-opening menu meeting. As the chefs began running through the list of planned dishes, one wag heard the first two — eggs in the classic brouillade preparation, escargots in garlic butter — and immediately proclaimed how much tastier they’d be together. “I know what we’re having for our first managers’ meal!” he said.
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On the menu at Frenchette, $17; 241 W. Broadway, nr. N. Moore St.; 212-334-3883.
*This article appears in the May 14, 2018, issue of New York Magazine. Subscribe Now!