The fisherman’s breakfast on Cervo’s new brunch menu seems less like what an old salt might shove into his cooler next to the bait than an Iberian-accented take on New York Jewish appetizing. Instead of the bagel and lox, there are two slabs of expertly toasted sourdough bread, one topped with fancy Spanish sardines and a white-bean-and-fennel salad, the other with house-cured ocean trout and pickled red peppers. The fish changes, depending on whatever strikes the fancy of co-chefs Aaron Crowder and Nick Perkins, but the basic flavor and textural contrasts remain, along with the boiled egg that really telegraphs “breakfast,” fisherman’s or otherwise.
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On the brunch menu at Cervo’s; $19; 43 Canal St., nr. Ludlow St.; 212-226-2545.
*This article appears in the April 16, 2018, issue of New York Magazine. Subscribe Now!