There are few dishes in the Italian culinary playbook as irresistible as fritto misto — that hodgepodge of delicately fried morsels, traditionally a mix of offal or seafood plus assorted vegetables. When perfectly fresh and skillfully fried, these tidbits arrive golden and crunchy, mysteriously ungreasy, and dangerously addictive. Cheetos and Doritos have nothing on fritto misto. At Joe Carroll’s new Casino Clam Bar, chef Jeremiah Del Sol’s terrific version includes squid, shrimp, Spanish anchovies, Italian capers, Kalamata olives, sliced lemon, and, as you might expect given the name of the place, clam bellies. This being Williamsburg, Del Sol throws out a few well-placed curveballs, including house-pickled cucumbers, bell peppers, and Cubanelles.
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On the menu at Casino Clam Bar; $15; 160 Havemeyer St., nr. S. 2nd St., Williamsburg; 718-782-3474.
*This article appears in the January 22, 2018, issue of New York Magazine.