Untitled’s Lettuce Wrap Is a Fish Taco So Good It Doesn’t Need a Tortilla

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Why Untitled chef de cuisine Suzanne Cupps calls them Fried Fish Lettuce Wraps when she might have gone with Fried Fish Lettuce Cupps, we don’t know. But they are, she says, her favorite item on the menu. Ours, too. Think Baja-style tacos without the tortillas. They’re exceptionally crisp and light, and local to boot. The tilefish, caught off the coast of Montauk, is in plentiful supply. And the tortilla impostor is a sweet and pristine leaf of Gotham Greens butterhead lettuce grown year-round on a rooftop in Brooklyn. At dinner, you can order these little mouthwaterers by the piece. But who could possibly stop at one?

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On the menu at Untitled at the Whitney Museum; $5; 99 Gansevoort St., nr. Washington St.; 212-570-3670

*This article appears in the February 20, 2017, issue of New York Magazine.

The Dish: Untitled’s Lettuce Wrap