openings

Northern Spy Food Co.’s Talented Chef Has Landed in Williamsburg

American caviar selection with schmaltz-deviled egg spread and buttered challah. Photo: Melissa Hom

One of 2016’s earliest restaurant casualties was the East Village’s Northern Spy Food Co., one of the farm-to-table pioneers. Chef Pete Lipson led the charge for two years before it sadly closed in February, and, fortunately, he has now found a home at All Hands, a new, seafood-centric Williamsburg restaurant. (No relation to Two Hands, though it’s probably time to name restaurants after a different body part. Four Noses? Left Eye?)

Lipson’s menu is as familiar and comforting as it is ambitious: He pairs house-made ricotta with Navajo fry bread, tuna pastrami with trout roe and buckwheat blini, and mussels on toast with beef béarnaise. (Sadly, Northern Spy’s pork sticky rolls do not make an appearance.)

The space is special, too — it takes up two floors of a standalone 19th-century warehouse. One of the co-owners, Craig Shillitto, is a restaurant designer who worked on Loring Place and Lilia, and he’s outfitted the 120-seat space with nautical details. Take a look:

Raw beet and farro salad with toasted pumpkin seeds and maple yogurt. Photo: Melissa Hom
Albacore tuna pastrami with buckwheat blini, pickled red onion, trout roe, and dill. Photo: Melissa Hom
Grilled octopus with braised yucca, castelvetrano olives, dried oregano, and curry mayonnaise. Photo: Melissa Hom
Seared Pt. Pleasant swordfish steak with baby carrot, grilled leeks, and piccata sauce. Photo: Melissa Hom
Bright and open. Photo: Melissa Hom
The bar. Photo: Melissa Hom
Prime corner spot. Photo: Melissa Hom

Menu [PDF]

All Hands, 29 Dunham Place, 718-963-0078

Northern Spy Food Co.’s Chef Has Landed in Williamsburg