When Floyd Cardoz opened Paowalla in Soho, he reprised a couple of greatest hits from his Mumbai restaurant, the Bombay Canteen. Eggs Kejriwal is one of them — a souped-up cheese toast named for Devi Prasad Kejriwal, a long-ago member of that city’s Willingdon Sports Club who had a passion for the eggs that were verboten under his culture’s strict brand of vegetarianism. According to Cardoz, Kejriwal had the club’s kitchen camouflage the offending egg with melted cheese and chiles, and the dish became so popular it developed a life of its own. Cardoz’s Mumbai rendition ignited a revival and took top place in local blog the Daily Pao’s ranking earlier this year.
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On the menu at Paowalla; $12: 195 Spring St., at Sullivan St.; 212-235-1098
*This article appears in the September 5, 2016 issue of New York Magazine.