Best known culinarily as Guss’s longtime home, the Lower East Side’s Essex Street has recently become snack-food central — especially on weekends, when Hester Street Fair occupies Seward Park. A guide to the new restaurant row.
13 Essex St.; no phone
Salvadoran masa cakes called pupusas, stuffed with things like the Central American flowerbud named loroco and the mix of mozzarella, refried beans, and chicharrones called revueltas.
15 Essex St.; 646-952-2313
From the owner of Chinatown’s popular Breakroom, a burger joint serving La Frieda patties, fried-chicken sandwiches, and cheese fries with roast pork, shaved rib eye, and bacon.
23 Essex St.; 212-353-1886
Chinese-run Tex-Mex takeout in the grand tradition of seminal cheap-eats favorite Fresco Tortilla Grill. Order a Monterey Jack quesadilla for old times’ sake.
Sam’s Spring Roll
23 Essex St.; 212-777-7211
Fusion spring rolls featuring Indian-spiced mashed potatoes, cumin chicken, and bulgogi beef. And don’t miss the minced-pork-and-Cheddar grilled cheese, a.k.a. Pig Pen.
LES Crêpes & Taqueria
25A Essex St.; 646-964-5000
A sidewalk shack housing one cook and two cuisines: Will it be a carnitas taco or a Black Forest crêpe?
27A Essex St.; 212-529-2700
This dumpling shack has been frying up gingery pork dumplings for years. Three dollars a dozen.
*This article appears in the July 11, 2016 issue of New York Magazine.