The Rise of the Power Sushi Restaurant

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Shuko, one of New York's nouveau sushi bars.
Shuko, one of New York's nouveau sushi bars. Photo: Melissa Hom

Has sushi replaced steak in terms of a luxury dining experience? New York critic Adam Platt and Grub editor Alan Sytsma think so, owing to restaurants like Shuko (where the two convened to record the latest episode of the Grub Street Podcast), New York Sushi Ko, Tanoshi, and, of course, Sushi Nakazawa. “If you’re knowledgeable about sushi, it shows that you’re a man of the world, and you’ve jet-set here and there,” Platt says.

In New York right now, sushi restaurants are taking unprecedented risks — both in terms of food (like Shuko offering apple pie for dessert) and structure. Shuko chef Nick Kim describes how he learned from Masa Takayama, who has a much more austere style, and stepped out on his own. Listen via iTunes, or just hit play below:

The Rise of the Power Sushi Restaurant