Openings

Inside the New Brooklyn Delicatessen Inspired by Iconic Upper West Side Shops

A bagel with the works from Frankel's Delicatessen & Appetizing.
A bagel with the works from Frankel’s Delicatessen & Appetizing.

Like all aspiring Jewish-food aficionados who grew up on the Upper West Side, brothers and Brooklyn transplants Zach and Alex Frankel spent not a little time flitting from one landmark supply shop to the next. Grossinger’s, Murray’s Sturgeon Shop, Barney Greengrass, and Zabar’s were their regular haunts, supplemented by the occasional downtown day trip to Katz’s and Russ & Daughters. Now, with this retail shop and 18-seat counter-service restaurant, which replaces long-lived neighborhood canteen Polonia, the Frankels have turned nostalgia for the good old fresser days into a business.

Smoked fish from Acme and other sources, Browne Trading Company caviar, and Baz bagels line the refrigerator cases and shelves. Ashley Berman, a Food Network kitchen alum and self-described Jewish-deli obsessive, is the executive chef. Her sandwich-centric menu runs the gamut from a whitefish club to hot pastrami. There’s even a nod to Gray’s Papaya in the form of a two-franks-and-soda “recession special.”

The retail area.
The retail area. Photo: Jody Wissner/New York Magazine
Rainbow cookies.
Rainbow cookies. Photo: Jody Wissner/New York Magazine
Alex and Zach Frankel.
Alex and Zach Frankel. Photo: Jody Wissner/New York Magazine
The braised brisket is based on a recipe from the brothers' grandmother.
The braised brisket is based on a recipe from the brothers’ grandmother. Photo: Jody Wissner/New York Magazine
Bagel with whitefish salad, onions pickled in beet juice, and cucumbers.
Bagel with whitefish salad, onions pickled in beet juice, and cucumbers. Photo: Jody Wissner/New York Magazine
Matzo-ball soup.
Matzo-ball soup. Photo: Jody Wissner/New York Magazine
Pastrami Reuben.
Pastrami Reuben. Photo: Jody Wissner/New York Magazine
Recession Special.
Recession Special. Photo: Jody Wissner/New York Magazine


Frankel’s Delicatessen & Appetizing; 631 Manhattan Ave., at Nassau Ave., Greenpoint; 718-389-2302

Inside Frankel’s Delicatessen & Appetizing