The 9 Best New Soups to Try Right Now
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Frog Legs Wontons

Photo: Bobby Doherty/New York Magazine

Alder, $16

You can almost picture Kermit skipping across the lily pads in this edible trompe l’oeil: The soup’s surface is dappled with nasturtium flowers and leaves. The housemade wontons are filled with sous-vide frogs’ legs, crunchy kuro edamame, and creamy parsnip purée. And the broth of pressure-cooked carrots and ginger gets its sweet, vibrant flavor, according to Wylie Dufresne, from the black dirt in which Greenmarket farmer Alex Paffenroth grows his roots.

157 Second Ave., nr. 10th St.; 212-539-1900

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Lamb Pho Saigon Style

Photo: Bobby Doherty/New York Magazine

Mission Cantina, $14

Like some kind of emergency hangover clinic, this Danny Bowien kitchen recently began serving for breakfast the type of Vietnamese street food that is unsurpassed in alleviating even the severest post-binge condition. Chief among these dishes is this hot, heady, flavorful broth enhanced by fat rice-stick noodles, herbs, bean sprouts, hoisin, and Sriracha.

172 Orchard St., at Stanton St.; 212-254-2233

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Cabbage Hot Pot

Photo: Bobby Doherty/New York Magazine

Dirt Candy, $30

In her new 60-seat premises, Amanda Cohen will finally have the room to serve large-format dishes for two like this inventive riff on the Chinese hot pot. The broth, flavored with smoked cabbage and fermented black beans, is poured from a teapot over cabbage-kale ramen noodles and fresh herbs; diners customize their bowls with all forms of plant matter, from lotus root and pickled ginger to miso halvah and kimchee.

86 Allen St., nr. Broome St.; 212-228-7732

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White Bean and Kale

Photo: Bobby Doherty/New York Magazine

The Little Beet Table, $9

Franklin Becker’s reimagined ribollita may be meatless, not to mention breadless, but with two types of beans (cannellini and Great Northern), plus cavolo nero two ways (in the tomato-based broth and dehydrated for a crisp garnish), it’s just as soothing as nonna used to make.

333 Park Ave. S., nr. 25th St.; 212-466-3330

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Ginataang Kalabasa

Photo: Bobby Doherty/New York Magazine

Lumpia Shack Snackbar, $7

In his two-pronged quest to add a soup to his winter menu and satisfy his vegetarian wife, Neil Patrick Syham reinterprets the traditional Filipino dish of squash in coconut milk with fermented shrimp paste as a velvety, tropical potage. He purées kabocha with coconut milk and tops it with fried sage and a dollop of Anita’s coconut yogurt, a fermented product that stands in nicely for the shellfish.

50 Greenwich Ave., nr. Perry St.; 917-475-1621

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Occidental Corn Pozole

Photo: Bobby Doherty/New York Magazine

Cosme, $22

Enrique Olvera’s ultrarefined pozole includes a little tableside showmanship: Your server pours the pork-based broth, redolent of dried chiles and Mexican oregano and fortified with crisp-fried cubes of pork jowl and large, chewy purple-corn kernels over a cool patch of iceberg lettuce, delfino cilantro, and Greenmarket radishes. You crumble the tostadas into the soup like Saltines yourself.

35 E. 21st St., nr. Park Ave. S.; 212-913-9659

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Sopa de Palmito

Photo: Bobby Doherty/New York Magazine

Botequim, $12

Delicately flavored and bafflingly creamy without the cheat of cream, Marco Moreira’s hearts-of-palm purée is a delicious platform for a smorgasbord of garnishes including sweet peppers, avocado, almonds, Brazil nuts, micro-cilantro, and a judicious splatter of dendê oil.

132 Fourth Ave., at 13th St.; 212-432-1324

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Kaukswe

Photo: Bobby Doherty/New York Magazine

Porchetta, $10

Sara Jenkins’s new Wednesday-night special swaps her signature roast pork for this Burmese curry’s traditional chicken. Like its Thai cousin, khao soi, it combines boiled and deep-fried egg noodles with an intricately spiced coconut-milk curry that Jenkins flavors with fish sauce and thickens with chickpea flour.

110 E. 7th St., nr. First Ave.; 212-777-2151

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Mu Ramen

Photo: Bobby Doherty/New York Magazine

Mu Ramen, $18

Add 65 pounds of oxtail, a truckload of beef tendons, plus a bunch of bones (veal neck, marrow, and femur) to pot. Cover with water. Boil for 22 hours. Strain through a chinois. Add tare and secret all-natural “umami bomb” sauce. Serve with noodles, half-sour pickles, cabbage, menma, wood-ear mushrooms, and ten-day-brined brisket. Sous-vide egg optional. That’s the recipe for Joshua Smookler’s sensational Jewish-deli-inspired house ramen, should you wish to whip up a batch at home.

1209 Jackson Ave., nr. 48th Ave., Long Island City 917-868-8903

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