There was a time, not so long ago, when soup was what you got at the soup kitchen when you were down on your luck. Soup was the spécialité de la maison chez Charlie Bucket in Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. Soup was what your grandparents ordered when they took you out to a restaurant. Now, soup has become fashionable. Marco Canora is having to beat back the East Village crowds with a ladle at his Brodo takeout window, where he sells his bone broth in sip-lid coffee cups to go. And Brodo, as improbable as it may seem, has inspired a slew of imitators, from Greenmarket meat vendors to hipster dumpling shops. As for Dave Chang’s pronouncement on luckypeach.com that ramen is dead, you need look no further than his comrade Peter Meehan’s rebuttal on the site for a reasonable refutation of that argument. Or just pull on your Heattech long underwear and get in line outside the recently opened Mu Ramen in Long Island City, or the new Ramen Lab on Kenmare Street, one cold and miserable night, and decide for yourself. Here, nine new bowls that turn soup from simple nourishment to winter’s hottest liquid assets.
*This article appears in the January 26, 2015 issue of New York Magazine.