What to Eat at Cotenna, the New Italian Restaurant Inside the ’ino Space

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Grilled lamb chops, balsamic vinegar, and roasted potatoes.
Grilled lamb chops, balsamic vinegar, and roasted potatoes. Photo: Melissa Hom

It’s hard to live up to ’ino, the beloved, teeny-tiny Bedford Street restaurant that closed in March of 2013 after 15 years. (And who can forget that truffle-egg toast?) But Cotenna, a cozy new Italian restaurant that opened last week in the same space, will certainly try. Owner Roberto Passon — of nearby West Village wine bar Aria — is serving an extensive menu, filled with bruschetta, salumi, grilled meats and seafood, and hearty, traditional pastas like tagliatelle Bolognese and spaghetti and meatballs. What’s nice about Cotenna is its confidence in the classics: You come here for reliable red sauce, a bottle of wine, and a server who actually learns and remembers your name. Take a look, straight ahead.

Pane e Porchetta.Photo: Melissa Hom

Grilled octopus.Photo: Melissa Hom

Dessert!.Photo: Melissa Hom

The space.Photo: Melissa Hom

Cotenna, 21 Bedford St., nr. Downing St.; 646-861-0175

What to Eat at Cotenna, the New Italian Restaurant Inside the ’ino Space