The New French: 10 Stellar Dishes Served En Croute

Navy's whole trout en croute feeds two.
Navy's whole trout en croute feeds two. Photo: Melissa Hom

It’s pretty much guaranteed that pastry dough will make any dish better: Whether it’s wrapped around a whole trout (at Navy), carrots (Narcissa), or chicken, truffles, and foie gras (the NoMad Bar), it always adds a soft, buttery layer. Sure, pâté, potpie, and Wellington-style preparations aren’t exactly what you think of when it comes to summer food, but New York chefs are doing wonderful things with pastry dough right now — and proving it doesn’t all have to be heavy. We’ve rounded up ten great dishes, straight ahead.

Navy's whole trout en croute feeds two.
Navy's whole trout en croute feeds two. Photo: Melissa Hom

Bouillabaisse En Croute
Where: Claudette
Cost: $27
Soft, buttery puff pastry is the perfect dipping vehicle for a bouillabaisse that’s filled with monkfish, octopus, and mussels.

Chicken Potpie
Where: The NoMad Bar
Cost: $36
The pub version of the restaurant’s famed chicken for two includes a rich heaping of foie gras, which is dropped into the pie table-side — soufflé-style.

Soft Scrambled Eggs Vol-au-Vent
Where: Lafayette
Cost: $17
This is basically a deconstructed croissant egg sandwich, and it’s fantastic.

Crispy Duck Pastry
Where: The Cleveland
Cost: $16
Max Sussman starts with Tunisian feuille de brick, and tops it all off with a spicy cilantro-pecan pesto.

Duck and Kumquat Terrine
Where: Forager’s City Table
Cost: $13
This sweet-and-savory pâté is wrapped with classic puff pastry.

Spring-Pea Potpie
Where: The Fat Radish
Cost: $18
With mint and a bit of crème fraîche, this seasonal potpie is actually rather light and virtuous, just like the restaurant itself.

Where: Chicane
Cost: $8
Apparently, this is a Monaco specialty: a pastry pocket filled with Swiss chard and soft ricotta.

Chicken Potpie
Where: Empire Diner
Cost: $23
Amanda Freitag offers a potpie as a "Green Plate" special every Wednesday — so plan accordingly.

Carrots Wellington
Where: Narcissa
Cost: $20
Critics agreed that the standout dish of Josh Fraser’s menu is his vegetarian riff on beef Wellington, with blue-foot mushrooms, sunchokes, and gremolata.

Whole Trout en Croute for Two
Where: Navy
Cost: $30
This is the crown jewel of Navy’s menu: It’s like the fish is wearing a jacket made out of pastry dough. And it tastes as good as it looks.