Top Chefs, After Hours: Inside Daniel Boulud’s Birthday Party

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Not long ago, a group of cooks, bartenders, and restaurant execs gathered at Williamsburg’s Extra Fancy (an industry favorite for post-shift late nights) on the evening of Daniel Boulud’s birthday. Some stayed until sunrise the next morning. The family-tree lines represented here are complex and many: Paul Carmichael was a tournant at wd~50, and in turn Wylie Dufresne was a cook for Alfred Portale; much of the room worked at Gramercy Tavern.