Ezra Klein Was Wasted by the Time the Spherical Olives Arrived

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Just ok. Photo: Kevin Clark/Washington Post

"To say 'El Bulli was incredible' is a horrible foodie cliché. They get you very drunk before they bring any food, which is brilliant like getting drunk before going to a comedy club. But beyond that, I've never been anywhere where people have worked so hard to delight you." The Washington Post columnist just isn't so sure Ferran Adrià's culinary antics would play as well if everyone were sober. [F]