Holiday Food 2013: The Sinful and the Saintly
1 of 13
Back to the Intro

Holiday Food 2013: The Sinful and the Saintly

1 of 13

The Decadent, Butter-Drenched Feast

Photo: Bobby Doherty/New York Magazine; Food styling by Karen Evans

For this Thanksgiving spread, no stick of butter was spared. The pièce de résistance? An over-the-top turkey courtesy of chef Paul Liebrandt, the eccentric mastermind behind the Elm in Williamsburg. After a quick brine to semi-cure the skin, the bird spends a night resting in the refrigerator to dry out before it is slowly roasted with six (yes, six) sticks of butter and four ounces of black truffles, ultimately becoming what Liebrandt says is simply “a luxurious treat.” Marea chef Michael White’s opulent squash bisque, topped with jumbo lump crabmeat and drizzled with crème fraîche, pumpkin-seed oil, and sparkling pomegranate seeds, is actually the lightest dish on the menu—“The squash gives the soup a creamy texture, but it’s not too heavy before the turkey,” White says—but his bread pudding with bone marrow, mushrooms, and more black truffles makes up for it. “The bone marrow is unctuous,” he says. “It’s the secret ingredient to coax out more flavor.” Michel Richard, who recently opened the ornate Villard Michel Richard in the Palace Hotel on Madison Avenue, went all out with his Brussels sprouts, smothering them in a creamy bacon sauce. Richard, who started out as a pastry chef at Lenôtre in Paris, also created a pumpkin-mousse-pie showstopper. “Pumpkin on its own is boring,” says Richard. So he went to town with a chocolate crust, then a layer of candied pecans for a little crunch, followed by the spicy pumpkin mousse, topped off with cascades of shaved chocolate; an appropriately grand finale that will leave you in elastic-waisted pants for the foreseeable future.

 

Recipe: Slow-Roasted Turkey in Black-Truffle Butter by Paul Liebrandt

7 of 13

The Virtuous, Olive-Oil-Based Feast

Photo: Bobby Doherty/New York Magazine; Food styling by Karen Evans

Those looking to indulge this holiday season without having to follow up with a cleanse will appreciate this olive-oil-centric feast. Since it’s nearly impossible to make a turkey that’s both good for you and delicious, Einat Admony, of Nolita Mediterranean restaurant Balaboosta, suggests a whole roasted salmon as an alternate centerpiece. She gussies it up with layers of lemons, rosemary, thyme, and garlic and tops it with a tasty caper-and-currant sauce. Instead of mashing sweet potatoes (which inevitably require extra butter), Admony roasts them with mustard seeds, for crunch, as well as rosemary and honey: “Honey is my sugar,” she says. As for the latkes—which Admony included here as a nod to the highly unusual fact that the first day of Hanukkah falls on Thanksgiving this year—yes, they are fried, but they’re fried in olive oil, and topped with a healthy yogurt sauce. Amanda Cohen, of East Village vegetarian mainstay Dirt Candy, believes that Brussels sprouts have been abused and overcooked for too long. So she went for a fresh, bright-green Brussels-sprout salad, tossed with almonds and pear and finished with a salty Pecorino Romano. Seamus Mullen, known for his locavore-­leaning Spanish eatery Tertulia, takes the ubiquitous kale and elevates it with cubes of butternut squash, sweet raisins, and shredded Cheddar. “While kale has a natural bitterness, it becomes more accessible with the raisins and squash, and the ­Cheddar brings the two elements together,” he says. Finally, Admony’s pavlova with a crispy exterior and a marshmallow center might seem like an indulgence, but it’s made with egg whites and dolloped with a Greek-yogurt-and-date-infused cream substitute.

 

Recipe: Whole Roasted Salmon With Preserved-Lemon, Caper, and Dill Sauce by Einat Admony

11 of 13

The Virtuous, Olive-Oil-Based Feast

Photo: Bobby Doherty/New York Magazine; Food styling by Karen Evans

Recipe: Corn Salad With Red Peppers by Einat Admony

12 of 13

The Virtuous, Olive-Oil-Based Feast

Photo: Bobby Doherty/New York Magazine; Food styling by Karen Evans

Recipe: Sweet-Potato Wedges With Rosemary and Mustard Seeds by Einat Admony, adapted from Balaboosta by Einat Admony (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2013.

13 of 13

The Virtuous, Olive-Oil-Based Feast

Photo: Bobby Doherty/New York Magazine; Food styling by Karen Evans

Recipe: Pavlova With Dates and Pears by Einat Admony

SPONSORED MESSAGE

Recent Openings

Recent Closings

Latest News from Grub Street

Adam Sachs No Longer With Saveur

The magazine suffered layoffs.

New Video Shows Restaurateur Joe Bastianich Making Racist, Sexist Comments on Italian TV

A clip from Masterchef Italia casts prior allegations in a new light.

Noma Catered Justin Timberlake’s Man of the Woods Listening Party

Acclaimed chef René Redzepi took the album’s title very literally.

Japanese City Activates Emergency Alert System After Store Sells Deadly Blowfish

Five packages went out, and so far three have been recovered.

Taiwanese Beef Noodle Soup Has a New Home at Ho Foods

“I’m making it like my mom taught me to, but I’ve refined it over the years.”

The Absolute Best Pho in New York

Where to go for the tastiest, most fragant Vietnamese noodle soups in town, from chicken versions to classic all-beef bowls.

Mar-a-Lago Racked Up 15 More Food-Safety Violations

Word of advice: Don’t eat the hot dogs.

McDonald’s Says All Its Packaging Will Be Recyclable by 2025

Also, it’s aiming to put recycling bins in every store.

Gabriel Stulman’s First Hotel Restaurant Opens Today — Here’s Why He Wants It to Feel Like a Sleepover

Two of the prolific restaurateur’s projects in the Freehand Hotel debut today.

Is Trump to Blame for the West Village’s Tortellini Shortage?

When her visa renewal was denied, a prized pasta-maker from Bologna had to temporarily hang up her rolling pin.