Calvin Trillin Remembers Joe’s Dairy

We miss Joe's.
We miss Joe's. Photo: PaulSteinJC's flickr

The New Yorker writer, occasional walking-tour guide, and bodega-and-dumpling-shop thrill-seeker Calvin Trillin files a dispatch from inside the shuttered Joe’s Dairy on Sullivan Street. There, Trillin meets Vincent Campanelli, whose brother Anthony ran the shop from 1977 until May of this year. Despite the neighborhood’s tony boutiques selling infant apparel, the existence of a $32 duck entree at the Dutch nearby, and the fact that Jared Kushner now owns the Joe’s building, the business wasn’t quite pushed out, Trillin writes; in fact, it had seven years left on its lease. Instead, the retail market for a latteria where anyone could just walk in, order a bundle of fresh salted mozzarella, and eat it on the street (or, take it home) just collapsed over time. “Our clientele disappeared,” Vincent says. “The yuppies eat out or they go to Gourmet Garage or Whole Foods or Trader Joe’s.” [New Yorker, Earlier, Related]