Inquirer Critic Head Over Heels With Serpico in Philly

Congrats, chef.
Congrats, chef. Photo: Patrick McMullan

Former chef and culinary director at Momofuku Peter Serpico opened an ambitious but casual restaurant with Stephen Starr on South Street in Philadelphia back in June. The kitchen has warmed up for a few months, and now Inquirer critic Craig LeBan weighs in: The chef is “one of the most thrilling culinary minds to land in Philly in years,” cooking “in a style that is at once edgy, intricate, and beautiful.” He gives the restaurant three bells. From the sound of things, pretty much everything on the menu — which includes fried frogs’ legs, diver scallops with buttermilk and Sriracha, “Frankenlamb for two” with Sichuan chiles, and even a potentially humdrum vegetable plate — is doing something new. [, Earlier]