Alan Richman Comes Around on Husk

GQ's critic says new location is much improved.

Early last year, when the entirety of the food-writing world was enthralled with Sean Brock’s restaurant Husk in Charleston, GQ critic Alan Richman came away decidedly unimpressed. At the time he wrote, "I’d expected more. Sophistication, I hoped. Care, at least. I found neither." But this week he files on a trip he took to Husk’s second outpost, in Nashville, and he has changed his tune considerably.

GQ's critic says new location is much improved.

The big takeaway comes in the review’s last paragraph:

Unless my travels were in some way influenced by astrological imbalances that for a short term made bumblers out of an entire kitchen in Charlestown and transformed cooks in Nashville into whiz kids, I’m left with a pretty straightforward conclusion: The kitchen crew in Nashville is in a different league.

A plate of field peas is "wonderfully soft, sensuous, and homey"; stuffed quail is more or less perfect; wine recs are spot-on; and even the okra is unslimey — quite the feat.

Alan Richman: In Nashville, Husk is Reborn [GQ]
Earlier: GQ Ranks the Country’s Best New Restaurants, Richman Trashes Husk