returning to the well

Bruni Celebrates Restaurant Regularity

Bruni goes for Barbuto's chicken.

Bruni goes for Barbuto's chicken.Photo: Melissa Hom

Click on over to the Times "Dining" section today — or look in the actual paper — and you'll see ex-critic Frank Bruni's piece on the joys of being a restaurant regular (something Bruni obviously couldn't be during his semi-anonymous reviewing days). In case you needed reminding, it's a pretty sweet deal: As a customer, it's comforting to know what to expect. Staff members will recognize you and hook you up with things they might not otherwise. And, if you're Frank Bruni, you'll be "ushered" to one of the Breslin's curtained-off booths, though Grub Street doubts that same perk applies to the hoi polloi. [NYT]

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