Posts for September 5, 2013

Brunch at Atrium DUMBO and the Butterfly; Fair Folks & a Goat Is Now Serving Beer and Wine

• Soho coffee-design shop Fair Folks & a Goat just got its beer-and-wine license! There will be a celebration tomorrow afternoon and evening. [Grub Street]

• This fall, Craftbar will host Sunday night family-style feasts in honor of the San Gennaro Festival, beginning on September 15 and going until September 22. Chef Lauren Hirschberg’s Italian spread includes fritto misto, housemade ricotta, pasta fagioli, and cacciatore-style housemade sausages. And on Sunday, September 29 and October 6, Craftbar will celebrate Oktoberfest with a German-style feast. Both menus are $45 per person and are recommended for four or more guests. [Grub Street]

• The newly opened Atrium DUMBO now serves brunch on the weekends, with dishes like pancakes with peaches and ricotta, and a leek, mushroom, and Gruyère omelette. Brunch is available Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. [Grub Street]

• Starting this weekend, the Butterfly will also serve brunch from 10:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday. [Grub Street]

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Waylynn Lucas Has Complicated Feelings About Eat, Drink, Love

"It does make me a little sad that the L.A. food scene is represented like this because I think there is so much more to it. I would just certainly hope viewers take it with a grain of salt and know that though you are getting an inside view into what goes on behind the scenes at food event and restaurants in our lives, to realize it is TV and it’s supposed to be entertaining." —Fonuts chef-owner Waylynn Lucas says the reality behind the food-industry-based show is a little more complicated than all that stuff that happens onscreen. [LAT]

The New They Might Be Giants Video Is Meaty, Delightful

If you've ever had the sneaking suspicion that broccoli florets are playing air guitar on baby carrots and two-pound slabs of ground chuck are rocking out behind you, this new They Might Be Giants video confirms you're not alone. (We already knew about John Linnell's fondness for bacon and pastrami.) And hey, that's Lauren Lapkus from Orange Is the New Black on the sauté pans.

Flambé. »

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Will Goldfarb Returning to New York to Cook at Louro

It's been a really long time since we ran this photo.

It was just twelve years ago that Paul Liebrandt and Will Goldfarb had New York's restaurant critics plunging their faces into brackish kelp water to recover tiny nori-wrapped nuggets of foie gras torchon with their teeth at Papillon. Times have changed; Liebrandt cooks at the Elm, and five years ago, Goldfarb left New York for Bali to work and develop his line of proprietary modernist-chef products. Next Tuesday, Louro chef David Santos and house bar man Mayur Subbarao welcome the visiting chef for a one-night-only collaborative dinner at the West Village restaurant; the menu starts with a cognac and "frozen Chartreuse bubbles" cocktail and moves right along to uni tempura and foie-and-blueberry pudding. Tickets are $125; check it all out here. [Underground Eats]

Central Park Hot-Dog Vendors Pay $200K in Annual Fees

A street-side hot dog runs maybe two bucks, but the right to sell said dog is an honor that comes with a hefty price tag. Vendors pay hundreds of thousands of dollars to nab choice spots. Costs all depend on a cart's proximity to desirable attractions, the Times points out in this handy sausage real-estate map. Turns out the location of all locations is Fifth Avenue and East 62nd Street by the zoo, which would have to bring in an estimated $425,000 to offset operating costs. The permit alone runs that vendor $289,500, or just about the cost of one shelf in a walk-in closet of his neighbors over on CPW. Beyond peanuts and dogs, cart proprietors make the bulk of their profit with bottled-water sales, if they make it out of the red at all. Now you know why you feel like you're being robbed paying a fortune for water on the street. [NYT]

Really? USDA Says It’s Fine If China Processes America’s Chickens

Vacation!

The U.S. Department of Agriculture has given the initial approval for four companies in China to begin processing chickens slaughtered in the U.S. and Canada and then export the meat back into the United States. The globe-trotting chicken will be cooked and/or "heat-treated" abroad and still have to pass USDA muster, but no inspections or monitoring will actually take place in China. Critics of the plan argue that, in addition to concerns about food safety, the change in policy signals a broader overture for the United States to open up future imports of birds that were raised, slaughtered, and processed in that country.

The 46-year-old chicken foot. »

Cronut Inventor Dominique Ansel’s New Creation Is the ‘Magic Soufflé’

It's even got its own box.Photo: Melissa Hom

Dominique Ansel — inventor of the cronut and frozen s'more — has another new creation ready to go. He's calling it the "magic soufflé," and it debuts this weekend at the Spring Street bakery. It's essentially a chocolate soufflé entombed in orange-blossom-scented brioche, and much like the aforementioned cronut, it's another feat of pastry engineering.

Waaay beyond the ramekin. »

Status Update: ‘Facebook’-Flavored Ice Cream Exists

It's unclear if Facebook likes this.

As Facebook steadily makes money off the world’s "likes," two ice-cream-makers at a little shop called Valentino-Tisno in Croatia are cashing in on everyone else's obsession. After noting how compulsively one owner's daughter checked the site, the entrepreneurs realized there was a widespread craving that needed sating, and so they developed "Facebook" ice cream. It doesn't take much to mimic the social-media giant, apparently: The novelty flavor is just vanilla mixed with blue syrup (it somehow tastes "like gum"), but since it's displayed with the company's trademark, the ice cream has been getting a lot of "likes." PSFK notes that the proprietors "admit they hadn't contacted Mark Zuckerberg for trademark use but would if the company reached out to them." [PSFK]

Ladurée Officially Opening in Soho and Miami This Fall

This façade went up on West Broadway this morning.Photo: Courtesy of Ladurée

Ladurée announced its takeover of the Barolo space way back in June 2012, and it's finally scheduled to open on West Broadway in mid-November. The "biggest Ladurée in the world" will include three salons, a restaurant, a macaron shop, a full bakery, and a terrace. Chairman David Holder is bringing in chefs from the Paris Ladurée to re-create the menu offered at the flagship, which means you can expect black-truffle omelettes and pan-fried foie gras. The macarons will still be flown in fresh from France every day — how else would the 151-year-old company protect its precious recipe?

Macarons will invade Miami, L.A., and Chicago too. »

McDonald’s New ‘Dollar & More Menu’ Is Just a Regular Menu

It's come to this: McDonald's is pushing "farm-to-table freshness" and buying up America's wings, and now the chain is commemorating ten-plus years of its Dollar Menu by raising prices. A beta-version of the expanded menu section being tested in select markets includes $2 burgers and $5 McNuggets, making it pretty much like the regular menu — hence that enigmatic "& More" slapped onto the name. The feeble rebranding, which could lead to a national revamp "later this year," is all part of an effort to (shocker!) get customers to pay more than a dollar and hopefully boost McDonald's so-so sales, a problem restaurant analysts are blaming in part on lack of innovation. You don't say. [USAT, Related]

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Joe Dobias on the ‘Cheffing Game’

"Amazing stuff happened in the late 90s when chefs started going back and running their own kitchens, but that's gone. Chefs my age are opening three, four, five places within months of their first one. The cheffing game is about ego — you do it because you want to be in control and put your name on the menu. But I don't know how many menus you can put your name on when you've never touched a pan in the kitchen." —Joe Dobias, chef-owner of the forthcoming Joe & Mrs. Doe in the former JoeDoe space, says some of his peers are spreading themselves too thin. [Fork in the Road/VV]

Top Chef Masters Recap: Dave Hill on Mobster Fish and Fancy Nachos

Neal Fraser spent years training so he could make fancy nachos on TV.Photo: Isabella Vosmikova/Bravo

Hello. This is resident culinary expert Dave Hill with yet another really insightful recap of Top Chef Masters, what critics are already calling my favorite show in the history of television where chefs fight to death (at least I’m hoping that’s where this is headed). Last night, the popular Bravo network aired episode seven of season five, and that shit was nuts.

"...the wardrobe person was either drunk or phoning it in..." »

Habana Outpost Owner Moves Ahead With New Orleans Project

Probably happening.

Sean Meenan has received permission to submit final documents to the architectural review committee of the Vieux Carre Commission in New Orleans, which is a good indication that his plans to open a French Quarter branch of Habana Outpost may get city approval. In May, it was reported that critics objected to the large restaurant as "totally out of character" with its surroundings, and local residents threatened to sue if the Café Habana and Habana Outpost proprietor was given a green light to open on three lots in the landmark neighborhood. Supporters have argued that the 223-seat restaurant would not only be an improvement at the long-vacant corner parcel, but will also benefit the local economy. [WWNO, Earlier]

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