‘Infinitely More Enjoyable’ Than the French Laundry

Worth $500?
Worth $500? Photo: Courtesy of Restaurant at Meadowood

Ryan Sutton tried the 21-course, $500 tasting menu at the Restaurant at Meadowood in Napa Valley and penned an essay about finding luxury in vegetarian food. “My counter meal at Meadowood isn’t moderately more enjoyable than my most recent experience at the French Laundry; it’s infinitely more enjoyable,” he writes. (Burn!) He spoke to Dan Barber, who revealed that over at Blue Hill at Stone Barns, the tasting menu now includes 70 to 80 percent vegetables and grains. Is “root-to-fruit” the new “nose-to-tail”? [Bloomberg]