Rhubarb Pimm’s Cup on draft, vegan ricotta made from coconut cream and agar, and new-fangled pigs in a blanket are just some of the things that make Wylie Dufresne’s newish, more casual restaurant Alder exactly what it is. Artinfo goes behind the line at the Power Rankings mainstay to get a good look at the restaurant, which comes across much less of a temple of high modernist cuisine and more of a think-tank restaurant comprised of folks (executive chef Jon Bignelli and bar director Kevin Denton among them) with really cool ideas about food. “There’s this connotation of tweezer food, where you see chefs hunched over like this, with one arm behind their back, with tweezers, and everything’s very meticulous” says Bignelli. “But at the end of the day, food has to taste good, and these plates have to get put together within 30 seconds.”