Tom Sietsema writes in the Washington Post that his local Arlington location of expansion-happy Euro-chain La Tagliatella makes him wish there were such a thing as “hazard pay for restaurant critics.” The Poland-based restaurant specializes in “strangely ham-heavy” Neapolitan pizzas, behemoth plates of pasta, and salads like the house Caesar, which seems to be made with exactly zero of the classic ingredients and comes with a “choice of six dressings, including a honey and pistachio vinaigrette that goes down like melted baklava and tastes even more out of place when Dean Martin is belting out ‘Volare’ in the background.” Verdict? “Someone needs to put a stop to this threat to our nation.” The funniest restaurant review you’ll read all day is here. [WP]