The Other Critics

Besha Rodell Catches Up With Jeremy Fox at Rustic Canyon

Fox's clam and mussel pozole
Fox's clam and mussel pozole Photo: Kevin Eats

Back in February, Jeremy Fox followed his crooked path to Rustic Canyon, Josh Loeb and Zoe Nathan’s farm-sourced Santa Monica restaurant, taking himself out of view of the food blog-stalkerazzi to get cooking again. Today, Besha Rodell catches up with the former Ubuntu chef to shed a vegetarian tear over his egg-topped asparagus sitting in a pool of bone marrow gravy. What does she have to say?

“To regulars of the minimalist, intimate restaurant,” she writes, “it might appear that not much has changed since Fox came on board in January…That said, there is less of an Italian undertone…Fox has lightened the menu and simplified it. He’s also brought his own aesthetic, one that, not surprisingly, focuses on subtle and stunning roles for the fruits and vegetables on the plate….[his] Fox’s style is clean and fresh and restrained, which makes the small touches of opulence all the more indulgent.” She finds no missteps and will even be haunted by Fox’s strawberry soffritto for a good spell, concluding, “Because of the seasonal nature of these dishes, no one thing is likely to stick around long enough to gain such a following, but I sincerely hope that Jeremy Fox does.” Three stars hang high above Rustic Canyon. [LAW]

Besha Rodell Catches Up With Jeremy Fox at Rustic Canyon