Unterman Calls Hi-Lo ‘the Best Restaurant to Open in San Francisco This Year’


Granted the year is only a little over three months old, but Patricia Unterman declares her love for the “unabashedly San Francisco-style barbecue place” that is Hi-Lo (3416 19th Street). She says the stars of the show are the St. Louis-cut spare ribs with meat “gently seasoned by smoke.” But she also loves the brisket and calls out chef Ryan Ostler’s choice to offer “slices from the deckle, the fat-laced cap on the brisket that butchers usually remove and grind into hamburger.” She calls it “meat nirvana.” There are also excellent salads and “spectacularly delicious sides,” her favorite being the Iacopi butter beans. And she likes the service style, with counter ordering and extra drinks available from servers, saying it “elevates ‘fast casual’ to an art form.” [Unterman on Food]