The Other Critics

Conshy’s Southern Cross: ‘We Don’t Want You to Yelp About Us’; Shake Shack’s SmokeShack Is ‘Satisfying Without Leadening Effect’

• There’s no chance of glowing review when it begins with dishes being removed from the bill, and servers saying, “We don’t want you to Yelp about us!” But beyond the “hockey puck” biscuits and “juiceless and completely bland” fried chicken, the most important takeaway from Craig LaBan’s one-bell appraisal of Conshy’s Southern Cross Kitchen is, restaurants can no longer leverage lengthy tap lists to counter their floundering service and kitchen output. LaBan calls bullshit on the practice, stating it’s become “an all-too common cover for restaurants that don’t have the rest of their act together. In terms of the Cross’ “many menu flaws,” he adds, such missteps “cannot be completely obscured by the latest high-octane Imperial IPA.” [Inquirer]

• Adam Erace doesn’t know if there’s a meal that touches “the American soul more deeply” than a burger, fries and shake. But he does know that Shake Shack’s SmokeShack is “satisfying without having a leadening effect”; ’Shroom Burger is as “delicious as delusional herbivores often pretend it is”; and the “crisp, nicely salted crinkle-cut” fries are “addictive.” [Courier-Post]

Conshy’s Southern Cross: ‘We Don’t Want You to Yelp About