the 'cue of queens

John Brown Smokehouse’s Josh Bowen Takes Ranger Texas Barbecue

John Brown Smokehouse’s Josh Bowen Takes Ranger Texas Barbecue

Photo: Melissa Hom

Queens is fast becoming the barbecue borough: Fork in the Road ventures out to Alchemy, Texas, which isn't a Wim Wenders sequel but in fact the newest iteration of Ranger Texas Barbecue, itself a long-lost heir to Pearson's, which once blazed a fragrant and memorable trail of hardwood smoke that many considered to produce the city's finest 'cue. Josh Bowen of John Brown Smokehouse has taken over as pitmaster and herewith pledges to restore the brisket balance in Jackson Heights. Robert Sietsema's a fan, but finds the $12-per-pound goat ribs much more exciting in theory than in execution. [Fork in the Road/VV]

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