The Other Critics

Heirloom Café Gets a Rave From the Financial Times

Heirloom Café tends to fly a bit under the radar, despite having a cult following from wine aficionados and people in the neighborhood. Sommelier-owner Matt Straus opened the restaurant at 21st and Folsom back in 2010, and it’s quietly built respect ever since — including early praise from Michael Bauer. This month, though, the place got a bit of unexpected national attention via Nicholas Lander at the Financial Times, who happens to be married to British wine critic Jancis Robinson. Lander calls his meal a standout, and praises “the [dining] room [which feels] as lived in as someone’s home.” Also, he calls out Straus’s impressive wine cellar, and the ambition when he opened the restaurant to “take pleasure in watching the wines mature.” [FT]

Heirloom Café Gets a Rave From the Financial Times