There is a rumor that The New York Times occasionally publishes shallow, linkbaity attack pieces on Chicago— no immediate examples come to mind— but it has also been known to write about things in Chicago thoughtfully, and that is why you should go read Sam Sifton’s story about Chris Pandel and Balena, in which Pandel, in the course of making a mushroom bruschetta, expresses his philosophy of making things the right way:
Mushrooms next: Agaricus bisporus, the common mushrooms known at various points of their growth as white or button mushrooms, or champignons. These become creminis or baby bellas as they grow. Eventually they are portobellos. Handle them with care, whatever their name. “It’s important to learn how to clean mushrooms without really getting them wet,” Pandel said. You can get most of the dirt off them with your fingers, brushing their caps and stems softly. If water is necessary, make it ice-cold and use it sparingly, then dry the mushrooms quickly and gently with a paper towel.