Roth Loves the Pork Belly and Duck Wings at Hi-Lo BBQ

The new signage
The new signage Photo: Courtesy of HiLoBBQ/Twitter

Anna Roth submits the first review of Hi-Lo BBQ, opened just a month ago across from Hog & Rocks at 3416 19th Street (between Mission and Valencia). She respects that chef Ryan Ostler is avoiding charges of inauthenticity by calling what he does Northern California BBQ, even if it inspired an initial eye-roll. She’s in love, especially, with his sake-braised pork belly (“I’m still dreaming about that pork.”), and she loves the whiskey-sriracha duck wings and the Brussels sprouts too. She also has some praise for the tender and smoky St. Louis-style ribs, and the “sublime” Moroccan chermoula sauce that covers the smoked chicken. Only complaints: that chicken was a touch dry, and so was the brisket on one of two occasions. [SF Weekly]