This week, Adam Platt visited Harold Dieterles German-Italian restaurant, the Marrow, finding its namesake dish to be a stodgy, canoe-size affair. Citing the clumsy heft of other dishes, he gives the West Village spot one star. What are other critics takes on their meals? We serve that up, straight ahead.
Pete Wells also reviewed the Marrow, and decides its dishes are either completely sure of their purpose or so overembellished they lose their clarity. A tower of chicken, Brussels sprouts, and salami is a Babel of flavors, while cod dumplings are desecrated by peppers and raisins. Amid food that mostly rambles, duck schnitzel is miraculously crisp and a ginger stout cake is actually worth jumping up and down about. One star.
Robert Sietsema doesn't agree. Between dishes that honor Dieterles German dad and Italian mom, Sietsema thinks that the Marrow benefits more from the Italian side. While the duck schnitzel is magnificent and reminds him of Dieterles winning duck meatballs on Top Chef, salt-cod gnudi wows and bone marrow is perfect. Uniting both sides is that oft-praised ginger stout cake a most impressive production.
Tejal Rao found dishes that resembled fast food at Masaharu Morimotos Tribeca Canvas, as if human civilization had been destroyed and all a young cook could go on was a recipe collection preserved by T.G.I. Fridays. She wont be coming back for watery gyoza, spongy corn dogs, and tiramisu sliders that are like leftovers from last nights bachelorette party. Not even a truly nice staff can make up for such carelessly constructed food.
Steve Cuozzo thinks that Café Tallulah, the sceney French bistro on the UWS, might be the worst news on Columbus Avenue since a water main project hit the area in the eighties. Unless the restaurants inventory issues prevent you from having these, skate au grenobloise was the scrawniest specimen to ever touch a place, duck breast was artlessly carved, and beef bourguignon was so flavorless that even Cuozzos waiter warned him against it.
Stan Sagner of the Daily News dropped by Yefsi Estiatorio in Yorkville, where chef Christos Christou is doing Greek standards proud and entrees are "minimalist celebrations of their topnotch ingredients." A cinnamon and tomato-braised lamb shank is a misfire, but all is redeemed by the time the kitchen brings out the warm baklava and a "softball of intensely rich" Greek yogurt.
The General, a salute to modern Asian cuisine on the Bowery, lacks a command on flavor, Ryan Sutton believes. General Tsos chicken is one-note in a Wendys chicken nuggets kind of way, while crispy fried beef tastes like fried cardboard coated in syrup. Sutton says diluted flavors that never reach beyond pan-Asian party fare should be paired with Scotch cocktails, which are at least great drinks. He gives the restaurants elevated takeout a half-star and says chef Hung Huynh should be aiming higher.
The New Yorker's Ariel Levy visited Gaonnuri, a traditional Korean restaurant with an Empire State view. While the skyline offers a great escape, Levy suggests sticking to classic cuts of short rib, which do not disappoint, and a sublimely slithery japchae. The creative flourishes in desserts have a Cirque du Soleil quality. And when in doubt: Soju is really the way to go.