Posts for February 3, 2013

Platt: Aska Is a More Sophisticated, Worldly Operation Than It Seems

Aska, which opened earlier this winter in Williamsburg, looks at first like a caricature of the new Brooklyn-style restaurant that my wife is so tired of hearing about. There are only seven tables in the spare, slightly gloomy main dining area, which occupies the same space as Kinfolk Studios on Wythe Avenue. The (mostly male) wait staff sport checked shirts and carefully trimmed lumberjack beards and have a voluminous knowledge of trending Brooklyn topics, like cheese-making, obscure pickling techniques, and handcrafted beers. There’s a noted cocktail master on the premises, and because Scandinavian food is of the moment in Brooklyn (and around the world), the chef is, of course, Scandinavian. The featured dining option, if you don’t sit in the barroom, is a seasonal tasting menu ($65 for six courses), and because we’re in the depths of winter, it contains ascetic ingredients like rose hips, curls of lichen, and knobs of root vegetables, which the chefs proudly cultivate in the kitchen in a little brass pot.

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A Survey of the City’s Burgeoning Craft-Chocolate Scene

Photo: Victor Prado/New York Magazine

This February 14, you might want to resist the heart-shaped charms of the Whitman’s Sampler. To truly experience the pure, unalloyed taste of good chocolate (or “fine-flavor chocolate,” as the cognoscenti call it) and to really impress the chocoholic in your life, we recommend the bar form. No, we don’t mean the ones from the Korean deli or the office vending machine. We’re talking single-origin, bean-to-bar, and stratospheric cacao content (or, for the health-crazed, “raw”). Mast Brothers pioneered this once Eurocentric movement locally, but it’s no longer the only game in town. Here, a curated selection of homegrown new-wave chocolate for the Hallmark holiday and beyond.

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In Season: Rita Sodi’s Red Cabbage Salad

Photo: Victor Prado; Illustrations by John Burgoyne

You can find good cabbage any time of the year, but winter is the brassica’s finest hour, its moment to shine among the gnarly roots of the February Greenmarket. Red varieties planted in the summer and fall with their chalkboard-squeaky outer leaves and icicle-crisp flesh are best for shredding raw into salads. I Sodi’s Rita Sodi, who grew up outside of Florence, combines the red and the green with Robiolina, a soft and creamy Italian cheese. She calls the result a cabbage salad, but why not think of it as Tuscan winter coleslaw?

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Annisa Celebrates the Year of the Snake With a Six-Course Tasting Menu

Annisa’s Anita Lo was born in the Year of the Snake, and when that Chinese zodiac sign reappears on February 10, she’ll commemorate it with a six-course tasting menu (also available February 11; $105). Folklore has it that a serpent in the house means your family won’t starve, but Lo’s approach is more symbolic than literal: Think tea-smoked eel with monkfish liver and fat choy, seared foie gras with soup dumpling (for prosperity), and duck with crispy eight-precious rice and chive buds (pictured), auguring loyal friends and a sweet year (13 Barrow St., nr. W. 4th St.; 212-741-6699).

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