Bauer Likes the Old Chicago Flair at Capo’s

Photo: Andrei Riskin/Grub Street

Michael Bauer’s review of Capo’s came out in Sunday’s paper, and he counts himself a fan much like Virginia Miller and Anna Roth before him. He enjoys the old-timey Chicken Vesuvio, which he says is “a great dish that hasn’t lost its currency,” and the hearty spaghetti and meatballs with chunky meat sauce as thick as “wet concrete.” Pizza lover that he is, he admits that deep-dish isn’t his favorite — he prefers his crusts cracker thin. So, not surprisingly, he’s overwhelmed by the Michigan Avenue pizza, which he calls a “belly bomb,” and the much talked about Quattro Forni pizza (cooked in all four of the kitchen’s ovens), which he says is nothing special and “might be good if you like to slather tomato sauce, cheese, garlic and oregano on a loaf of bread.” The verdict: two and a half stars. [Chron]