Chef Suggests Barolo With the Côte de Golem


The New Yorker (subscription required) runs a possible leftover from last week’s food issue that expands the Department of Health’s grading system into twelve new specialty categories: a sign bearing the letters WO stands for “Whimsical Offal,” meaning that the bison ducts and the côte de golem served within are must-try house specialties, but also potentially fictional. There’s MF, for the supplementary “Momofuku Fee,” which enables customers at a run-of-the-mill ramenya to “pretend that it is Momofuku” by tacking on “uncomfortable seating” and “unlimited sneers from the cooking staff.” The HSBC on the door means you’re actually in a bank, not a restaurant. [NYer, Earlier]