What to Eat at Chez Sardine, Now Serving Tuna With Chicharrónes in the West Village
Gabriel Stulman's constellation of West Village restaurants includes Fedora, Joseph Leonard, the forthcoming Montmarte, and Perla. There's Jeffrey's Grocery, where a chef supergroup presides over menu-planning and members take turns on the line, and now here's Chez Sardine, an izakaya built out with a retro, Pan Amera décor of finished wood and Fedora chef Mehdi Brunet-Benkritly in the kitchen. Some dishes, like the chopped scallop with quail egg and trout roe sushi bar starter, seem traditional. The main course foie gras and smoked-cheddar grilled-cheese sandwich, on the other hand, sounds so funky and ominous it should probably be accompanied by a sinister-looking man playing low notes on a baby-grand piano every time the kitchen sends one out. Either way, we're excited. Check out the space and the whole menu, straight ahead.
Chez Sardine, 183 West 10th St., at W. 4th St.; 646-360-3705