Many classic and newfangled clam and oyster bars alike have opened during the last year, and now here's one restaurant setting a high bar for its raw bar. Almond owners Eric Lemonides, Jason Weiner, and Antonio Rappazzo opened L Oyster Co. yesterday at 254 Fifth Avenue, former home to Cyril Renaud's Bar Breton and its subsequent revamp La Quenelle. Chef Jason Weiner developed the menu with chef de cuisine David Belknap, who cooked at Per Se. You'll find smoked and fried oysters in the frisee salad; housemade pancetta, corn nuts, and Brooklyn Brewery Oktoberfest in the cream-based "Brooklyn" clam chowder. In a high- and low-end fry-up, there are whole, tiny whitebait in the fritto misto. The restaurant transitions from a luncheonette into a full-blown candlelight and tablecloth kind of place from lunch to dinner. Check out its menu ahead.
L Oyster Co., 254 Fifth Ave., nr. 28th St.; 212-203-7772