Amanda Cohen Knows What Pete Wells Looks Like

'No Mr. Wells, I expect you to dine.'
'No Mr. Wells, I expect you to dine.' Photo: Courtesy of Amanda Cohen

“I have 18 seats. It’s an open kitchen. I know what he looks like. I’m here virtually every night. I had no idea he came here. Three times!!! The man is like some kind of Dinner Ninja, and if he can get in here without me noticing, where else can’t he go? New Yorkers! Be alert! Is Pete Wells in YOUR restaurant? In YOUR living room?” — Dirt Candy chef and owner Amanda Cohen, on the Mrs. Doubtfire–caliber cunning and finesse of New York Times critic Pete Wells, who just gave her restaurant two stars. [Dirt Candy, Earlier]