These days in New York, chefs tend to learn their craft in uptown kitchens (if they think about Manhattan at all), then move inexorably downtown. But with Cesare Casella, it’s been the other way around. During the course of his varied New York career, the personable chef from Tuscany has pedaled his special brand of rustic home-style Tuscan cooking down in the Flatiron district (at his breakout restaurant, Beppe). He’s detoured to start an import company devoted to heirloom Tuscan beans (Republic of Beans), and served comfort-oriented “cowboy style” pastas and steaks at a short-lived West Village restaurant called Maremma. But several years ago, Casella joined forces with the Italian salumi purveyor Parmacotto to open the boutique Upper West Side establishment Salumeria Rosi Parmacotto. And with that, one of the city’s original, downtown Slow Food cooks transformed himself into an uptown chef, with a devoted new clientele, new upscale recipes, and a polished, even posh, new uptown style.