The Other Critics

Pitruco Serves ‘Serious Pies’; ‘Beers Took Long, and Food Longer’ at The Cambridge

• Brian Freedman kicks the tires on Pitruco, and assures us that the wood-fired pizzeria-on-wheels turns out some “serious pies” that are “often transportingly delicious,” and “occasionally swoon-worthy.” [PW]

The Cambridge’s bar and kitchen both “delivered” for Adam Erace on his visit to South Street’s “loud, shadowy footprint of old Tritone,” but the “beers took long,” and the “food took longer.” “Crispy, buttery” pirogies “might not win a Polish granny’s approval in Port Richmond,” but for this part of town, he writes, “they’re something to celebrate.” [Citypaper]

• Phyllis Stein-Novack insists the house-fried potato chips “dusted with sea salt and fresh fried herbs,” and served with “creamy bacon dip” is a “must order” at newly opened Growlers. Apparently “big salads” are the “hallmark of gastropubs,” and the quinoa salad she ordered there “dazzled [she and Edward’s] taste buds.” “Excellent service,” and a “fine dish” of “plump, squeaky clean mussels cooked in beer with leeks and chorizo” earned the Bella Vista bar “three tips of the toque.” [South Philly Review]

Pitruco Serves ‘Serious Pies’; ‘Beers Took Long, and Food