Endangered Époisses: Is This the End of Stinky French Cheese?

A selection of American and French cheese at Épicerie Boulud. Photo: Melissa Hom/Staff or Contracted

A perfect storm of globalized dairy cooperatives, increased regulation of raw milk, and increased competition from American artisanal upstarts have left age-old French rinds in a bit of a rut. The Australian-based very special interest magazine French Living takes a look at the embattled "stinky" cheese scene in France, which has even spawned a solemn documentary featuring the industry's “last of the Mohican” fromagers. Writer Rachel Bajada goes on a fact-finding mission inside the affinage caves and into the heart of ooze-land with affineur Philippe Alléosse. "We don't know where we'll be in ten years from now," he says. Click on through for some beautiful curd-porn (it's safe for work), and whenever possible, eat more cheese. [French for Foodies, Earlier]