Grub Street

If you’re inclined to regard yet another Neapolitan pizzeria with an uninterested shrug, consider this: Before Matthew Hyland and Roberto Patriarca teamed up to open Brooklyn Central, the pizzaioli partners cooked at places like the Spotted Pig, i Trulli, and Felidia, and their New Brooklyn menu divides the pies into Old World and New World categories. The latter is where you’ll find the Colony (pepperoni, honey, pickled chiles; pictured), the North Maple (bacon, maple syrup, smoked ricotta, pecans), and the Street Fair (sausage, peppers, and onions) — all baked in a Stefano Ferrara wood-burning oven. Among the salads, the Caesar is dotted with pizza croutons, and the obligatory kale is garnished with candied nuts. The kombucha is on tap, and as soon as the license arrives, some local wines will be, too.

Brooklyn Central, 289 Fifth Ave., nr. 1st St., Park Slope; 347-725-4891